Reviews - Books I Read - DRJG: Kailash Manasarovar - A journey of 5 days: A Travelogue, by Mohit Lohani.

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Kailash Manasarovar

- A journey of 5 days: A Travelogue

with Color Imagery, of our 5 Day Journey

from Delhi, India through Flight Routes

of Nepal and China in June 2017.

by Mohit Lohani.

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Good, bare introduction, helpful in information for those wishing to do this journey, but giving no horrendous details of an actual performing of a Kailash Pradakshinaa.

"The Journey is an exchange with the Nature.

"You part your earthly concerns with her,

"And depart with some of her vastness with you."

Effort to minimise India and her ancient culture, there?

Nature, as such, is quite abundant in Serengeti, or Sahara, middle of Pacific Ocean and Antarctica, too. Or jungles of Borneo, Outback of Australia, and Siberia too, for that matter!

Was this trip undertaken, then, just to sell this empty brochure, however helpful?

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"some dream of journeying up here,

"And having been here,

"they wonder for the rest of their days,

"if it was a dream!"

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" ... One of the most revered of these spiritual sanctuaries, is the surreal sight of the snow-clad Kailash Mountain across the pristine waves of the Manasarovar Lake.

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"We then proceeded to do the circumambulation (parikrama) of the Manasarovar Lake covering 110 kms in 3 hours – the first half of which was motorised expressway, followed by a halt at a Chinese Office near Huo'er, and later followed by the last half which was over the unmetalled shore banks."

Text is accompanied with photographs of Rakshas Tal, Chiu Gompa and the "Chinese Office near Huo'er", of which the last mentioned makes it not only abundantly clear but clear beyond any possible doubts possible, that it's more than possible for the current regime to construct ultra modern facilities in the region.

This also leaves, then, no doubts regarding the motives behind the deliberately kept primitive facilities that Indian travellers to Kailash Manasarovar complex must suffer.

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"MOUNT KAILASH"

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"The Holy Significance

"Mount Kailash is considered holy by several Asian communities since the very dawn of civilization.

"Hindus consider it as the living abode of Lord Shiva, his wife - Goddess Parvati and two sons Ganesh and Kartikeya.

"Jains consider it as the place where their first Tirthankara (spiritual guide) – Rishabhadeva attained liberation.

"Buddhists consider it as the Mountain Meru from where Padmasambhava introduced Buddhism in Tibet in 7th Century AD.

"The Bons, a native Tibetan sect, consider the entire region as a Nine-Storeyed Swastika and the central axis of the world.

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"Located in the Trans-Himalayan region of Tibet in China, the Kailash (6638 meters) is a four-sided pyramidal mountain. It overlooks the cold, barren, wind-swept and sparsely habited plateau of China through which runs a most ancient Silk Route of trade (now a modern highway), southwards towards the snow-clad frontiers of India and Nepal and also northwestwards to Central Asia."

Slightly unclear for the unfamiliar readership there - "through which runs a most ancient Silk Route of trade" refers to the "sparsely habited plateau of China", not to Kailash Manasarovar complex, much less the mountain itself.

"The Tibetan sect of Bon refer to the mountain as River Peak or Mountain of Sea Water ... "

Author doesn't give the actual name or word that translates to 'Mountain of Sea Water', and it's unclear if there's a confusion, since one of the original names of what West named Everest is SaagarMaathaa, literally 'top of ocean'. It's unclear if that name applies to Kailash also, or every peak, or all of Himaalaya.

The 'River Peak' name is obvious, since several major rivers originate in this area.

But the other name, 'Mountain of Sea Water', is very significant - evidence of India always having had knowledge of rising of Himaalaya from ocean.

Current - native - population of Tibet is originally of Mongolian origin, and likely Indian - or original Aarya that India is native land of - population descended gradually to lower regions as Himaalaya rose higher, while migration from Mongolian region replaced them, or were mixed until the trace of Aarya is now not separate.

So most likely the Tibetan name, 'Mountain of Sea Water', stems from Indian ancient Aarya knowledge of the fact of Himaalaya having risen out of ocean.

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"Outer & Inner Parikrama (Kora)

"The devout pilgrims perform the parikrama or kora i.e. circle the mountain’s base - Hindus and Buddhists in a clockwise manner while the Jains and Bonpos in counter-clockwise manner - covering 40-50 kms in a period ranging from 2-3 days to several weeks, depending on the fitness, ritual practices and selection of Outer or Inner kora.

"The outer kora of 52 kms begins with 42 kms trek by foot (Tarboche to Dirapuk: 12 kms, Dirapuk to Zuthulpuk: 22 kms, Zuthulpuk to Chongdo: 8 kms) and 10 kms on motor (Chondo - Tarboche)."

This part is familiar, except most other descriptions omit mention of two separate alternatives.

"The inner kora has three optional circuits: (1) Dirapuk to Charan Sparsh: 6 kms, (2) Kuber Kund Trek from Shivasthal to Zuthulpuk: 18 kms, and (3) Nandi Parvat Kora from Darchen to Asthapad, Atma Linga, and Saptarishi Caves.

"The Gauri Kund or Parvati Sarovar (Lake of Goddess Gauri / Parvati) is a circular greenish-blue lake at the north-eastern side of Mount Kailash at 5608 meters. The Indian mythologies consider it as the place of ablutions for Goddess Parvati and the birthplace of Lord Ganesha."

Some other travelogues, for example, refer to some of the inner route spots, but without specifically mentioning that it's alternative choice.

Author gives a helpful map.

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"Lakes

"It is a natural curiosity to behold that while The Sun-shaped Lake of Manasarovar (4590 meters, 400 sq. km) carries the sweetest freshwater which feeds millions in Asia, while only 3 kms away, the Crescent-shaped Rakshas Tal or Ravan Tal (4575 meters, 250 sq. km) is a saltwater lake avoided by even the birds.

"The Indian mythologies attribute that the Lord Brahma conceived the lake (Sarovar) firstly in his mind (Man or Manas) before it manifested on Earth as Lake Manasarovar. Similarly, the lifeless waters of the Rakshas or Ravan Tal are attributed to it being the place of penance of Ravan – the King of Demons (Rakshas)."

Colonial slavery mindset evident in labelling it "mythologies"

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"Tibet has several ancient salt and freshwater lakes, several of them far bigger than the lakes of Manasarovar and Rakshastal. The salt water lakes are an evidence of this area once covered with sea before the Indo tectonic plate fused into Eurasian landmass millions of years ago resulting in the formation of Himalayas. Those lakes that are continually fed by the glacial rivers become fresh water like the Manasarovar lake. Rakshastal too once had a direct connectivity to Satluj but scientists attribute tectonic shift in this region in ancient times, slowly resulting in diversion of the inflow of freshwater streams from Satluj and other streams and constant evaporation of water resulting in increasing salinity in this lake. Lake Manasarovar's waters seasonally spills onto the Lake Rakshastal through a stream called Ganga Chu."

Are the freshwater lakes necessarily fed by glaciers, or could some be due to springs of their own?

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"Rivers

"Interestingly, four major rivers flow out of Manasarovar Lake region, and in all four different directions. Even more interestingly, they all still enter through India into the Indian Ocean.

"The Indus flows further north into Ladakh and Kashmir (India) before turning sharply southwards through Pakistan into the Arabian Sea.

"The Satluj goes westwards, cutting across the Himalayan state of Himanchal Pradesh (India), descending unto the verdant green plains of Punjab (India & Pakistan) where it merges into the Indus.

"The Karnali heads southwards into Nepal and descends unto the Indian plains as Ghaghara – the largest tributary of the Ganges river.

"Finally, the Yarlung Tsangpo flows eastwards across the length of Tibet before bending sharply into India as Brahmaputra and eventually flows into the Bay of Bengal in Bangladesh."

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" ... initial bonhomie was short-lived due to the border disputes which led to the cessation of the pilgrimage trek of Kailash-Manasarovar from India’s side till 1978.

"KMY Trip by Govt. of India

"Later, the Kailash Manasarovar Yatra (KMY) was organised under the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA).

"1. Lipu Lekh (Uttarkhand) route takes 23-25 days and MEA allows 1000 tourists. It includes a difficult trek of 200 kms taken on foot and ponies.

"2. Nathu La (Sikkim) route, opened in 2015, takes 19-21 days and MEA allows 250-500 tourists. It involves a trek of 35 kms."

Few writers mention the former alternative, while most mention going via Nepal. Until this, the half a dozen or so books one read of the travelogues by various people, none mentioned the latter.

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"Both the routes begin from New Delhi only and require an additional stay of 3-4 days in New Delhi for Visa and Medical formalities. The limited seats, long journey-time, trekking in high altitudes and pitying conditions of lodges, night shelters and hygiene, meant very few Indians availed this mode to travel to Kailash-Manasarovar. A later chapter at the end of the book explains more about this route."

Does this refer to the Indian government trip, both alternatives?

But the other travelogues, none via Indian government trip, too mention exactly the same conditions as far as state of facilities and hygiene are concerned, after leaving Nepal.

And other tough conditions, due to altitude and climate, aren't different whichever route or travel agency one uses.

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"Recently in 2020, Border Road Organization (BRO) completed an 80 km road along the Kali river connecting Dharchula to Lipu Lekh pass, which is already connected by motorable road from China’s side - it is hoped to cut the journey time significantly in future."

That's presumably in Uttarkhand.

But the trek around the mountain remains tough.

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"KMY Trip by Private Tour Agents

"The private players have ventured out quicker and comfortable flight routes via Nepal cutting the travel-time to just 5-7 days and since then, more Indians have come to realise their dreams of pilgrimage to the Kailash-Manasarovar."

Although the limiting factors are several as far as the number of Indian people are concerned.

For one, health concerns get severe with age, and while young are busy earning, elderly would find it hard to deal with health requirements.

But the well over a millennium of colonial occupation by invaders badmouthing India’s ancient knowledge and traditions, with educational institutions barred for most decades after independence from imparting any teaching thereof, guarantee that it's only with age that a courage to return to one's roots of India rises. By which time, Kailash-Manasarovar is all but impossible.

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"The Private Tour Agents ply via 2 major routes for Kailash Manasarovar Yatra through Nepal:-

"1. Nepalgunj - Simikot - Hilsa - Purang

"This has recently become the most popular and expedient route (5-7 days), involving a flight from Nepalgunj to Simikot, a quick helicopter to Hilsa border and AC Buses to Purang and Kailash Mansarovar.

"2. Kathmandu - Kerung - Dharchen

"After the ancient route of Kathmandu (Nepal) - Kodari border - Nylam (Tibet) got closed due to the massive earthquake in 2013, the less frequented Kerung (Kyirong) border route was opened. Tourists reach Kerung from Kathmandu through an 8-10 hour bus-journey and then proceed further to Dharchen. As the total journey of 14 days is by bus, it remains cost-effective.

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"Tour groups also opt to include sight-seeing at Kathmandu and even cover Lhasa for a few days at additional expense.

"Today, MEA route permits only 1000-1500 tourists from both routes, so applicants are drawn from computerized lucky draw.

"In contrast the Private Flight routes from Nepal ply 10,000 - 15,000 tourists every year through a shorter and more comfortable journey.

"The costs are also considerably similar between the MEA and Private Travel Agents."

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"Our Planned Route Day

"1:Delhi -> Lucknow -> Nepalgunj Day

"2:Nepalgunj -> Simikot -> Hilsa -> Purang

"Day 3:(Optional) Acclimatisation at Purang

"Day 4:Purang -> Manasarovar Lake -> Mount Kailash (Yamdwar) -> Purang

"Day 5: Purang -> Hilsa -> Simikot -> Nepalgunj Day 6:Nepalgunj -> Lucknow -> Delhi"

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"We boarded our train from Delhi to Lucknow and embarked on our journey on a taxi from Lucknow to border town of Nepalgunj in Nepal. We comfortably covered 190 kms in 5 hours passing through the towns of Barabanki, Ramnagar, Bahraich, border town of Rupaidiha, and finally arrived by dusk, at Nepalgunj which is 4 kms into Nepal.

"The border town of Rupaidiha is extremely well-connected with overnight public and private buses operating directly from Delhi also. The work had also started on upgrading the meter gauge railway line of Bahraich - Rupaidiha to Broad gauge. The formality of registeration of the travel groups at the border-gate was a brief one.

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"We had a lovely stay at the Neplgunj's prominent 7-storeyed Hotel Siddhartha which sports a fine dining section, a swimming pool and good Wi-Fi internet. Its close proximity to the Nepalgunj Airport is an additional advantage."

This is illustrated with a colour photograph with a large swimming pool reflecting an L-shaped hotel with over seven floors.

"Several travel groups associated with different tour agents, arrived daily - some onwards to Kailash while others returning from the journey. So, for easy identification of our luggage during the upcoming trip, the guide from our travel agency – Trip to Temples - handed us our characteristically coloured jackets and luggage bags and advised us to keep the remaining non-essentials at the hotel’s storeroom. The luggage bags are marked with a number which refers to a particular travel group.

"We made the customary calls to our homes from the Hotel's reception (as Indian SIMs lose connectivity in Nepal), and then we retired early."

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"It is a small blue-white building facing a functional tarmac across which raced several dozen small flights of local airline companies - Buddha, Tara, Yeti, Simrik and Nepal Airlines. Apart from capital Kathmandu, Nepalgunj Airport offered flights to nearby airports of Surkhet, Jumla and Simikot."

"Unfortunately for us, notwithstanding the open skies here at Nepalgunj and a brisk air-traffic to Kathmandu, the weather deeper in the Himalayan ranges forbade the flight to Simikot. We waited for a few hours playing cards, reading local newspapers, and munching tea & tiffin at a side-cafeteria. Finally, we returned to Hotel Siddhartha for lunch and nap. Though today turned out to be a washout affair, it was later covered by shortening our acclimitasation day at Purang."

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" ... Our wonder at the flight’s sheer compactness soon gave way to the delights of hovering past the spectacular views of Nepal’s hilly countryside of the Shivalik Range, which an hour later gave way to the loftier mountain passes of Himanchal or Middle Himalayas. Finally, like the drawn curtains, the rugged snow-clad mountainous passes parted and across the pilots’ visor screen, we caught our first glimpse of Simikot town – perched on a hill slope, surrounded by a thick verdant canopy – a hamlet so beautifully secluded that we might have teleported ourselves into a fabled folklore of Middle Earth.

"After landing at Simikot’s air strip, we climbed up the cemented hill slope. Once atop the overhanging balcony, we too gazed below at the full operations of the air strip: mini helicopters frequenting the border hamlet of Hilsa (where we were headed as well), the occasional tourist planes to and from Nepalgunj and Kathmandu and a rarer sight of a large roving Army chopper, which was to play a critical role in our return journey. The various agency’s guides and porters recognized their tourists by their characteristic colours of wind-cheater jackets and accordingly sorted through their characteristically coloured luggage bags. An hour into the wait, our agency’s local guide at Simikot appraised us that our mini helicopters for Hilsa are scheduled for 3 PM, which meant only one thing for the curious ones in the group – a chance to scout the by-lanes of Simikot.

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"Simikot (Altitude: 2900 mtr / 9500 feet; Population: 12,000)

"Simikot is the headquarter of the Humla district in Nepal’s north-western zone of Karnali - named after the gurgling Karnali river coursing down this valley from its source at the Mansarovar Lake.

"The town is accessible only through flights landing on its half-mile runway, while the nearest road-access is 90 kms far at Jumla – a trek of 3-4 days. The town has narrow stone-paved pathways frequented by mules and cycles as bikes and cars have not made their polluting presence here yet - a lone exception being the jeep chugging the tourists’ luggage to nearby home stays. Admiring the panoramic mountainous views, we walked the town’s mile long central lane. The town had a few home stays, restaurants, grocers, photo parlours and our find of the lot - a shack with youngsters playing billiards while the radio played local country music.

"Finally, we returned to the airstrip terminal to board our helicopter operated by Simrik Airlines. It could accomodate a passenger alongside the pilot plus 6 more passengers behind, along with their luggaage. As the pilot operated continuosuly over high altitudes, they were always supplied with an oxygen-rich air-pipe under their helmet.

"We filmed the sights of pine forested Simikot shrinking away as we swerved over the river Karnali and soon hovered over the narrow shrub valleys interspersed with trails connecting the remote hamlets. The pilot skilfully navigated over the snow-clad ranges and descended steeply into an arid terrain – a deserted lunar landscape with a meek scattering of pink flowered shrubs."

Here begin lovely photographs to illustrate the text's

enchanting descriptions.

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"Hilsa (Altitude: 12000 feet; Population varies seasonally)

"Hilsa is a hamlet in Humla district (Nepal) bordering China at the banks of Karnali river. It remain active during the summer season with a few dozen huts and tin-roofed eatery shacks while remains abondoned during the harsh winters.

"A swinging metal bridge named Maitrayee (Friendship) Bridge across the swiftly flowing Karnali river towers over the landscape. With Chinese assistance, a metalled road bridge connects over the Karnali river and a further rough trail road (50 kms) reaches Simikot (Nepal), facilitating cheaper and brisk trade with Purang/Burang (Tibet-China) in recent years."

Friendship is Maitree, while Maitreyi is nsme of wife of an ancient Seer.

"The high altitude, cold winds, and absence of vegetation results in low oxygen in the air and our breathing got laboured by the slightest exertion of walking half a mile from the helipad to the one good hotel here – the Hotel Snow View. The warm food, clean washrooms and adequate beds gave us the needful rest for an hour.

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"We crossed Karnali river at 4 PM, got our Passports stamped at the camp of Nepal’s Customs Office, and waited half an hour before the Chinese buses arrived.

"We drove a mile to China’s Custom Office, a stately sandstone castle, at whose gates the passengers are summarily de-boarded, faces matched with the Passports and luggage checked for any forbidden photographs of Dalai Lama.

"China has built excellent highways connecting even their remote precincts and the hour-long drive to Purang was quite scenic and comfortable. The accompanying Karnali river had been frequently embanked and barraged for electricity generation and regulation of water-flow. Small hamlets dotted the countryside. Construction was on full swing for another road on Karnali’s other bank. The highway was dotted with shrubs that grew to excellent heights. Great efforts were being done to sustain vegetation and agriculture in this arid region and we saw many large farms and green houses where grains (barley, wheat), oilseeds and vegetables were being cultivated."

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"Burang or Purang (Altitude: 13200 feet, Population: 6000+)

"Burang or Purang town is the headquarters of the Burang County of Ngari prefecture of Tibet region of China. It is an ancient trading town and is called Taklakot by Indians & Nepalese and Takla Ghar by Tibetans.

"The town has been built on a grid-like structure, extending 4 kms long and 2 kms wide, along the Karnali river. The central highway was a wide 4 laned avenue with footpaths on both sides and had grand institutional buildings for the Army, Customs, Police, Court on one side, and commercial and civil establishments like markets, hotels and hospitals on the other side. The residential town was older, with mud-brick structure and on the banks of the Karnali river. The town was being rapidly expanded and construction activity was on full swing in every direction.

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"We were lodged at the New Purang Hotel which had adequate facilities – beds with electric quilts and closet washrooms (though bathing was not recommended at such low temperatures). The WiFi worked well for Whatsapp voice calls and though Google Search (and Gmail, Youtube) was not permitted, China’s own Search site - Baidu.cn provided all the necessary information. The Indian meals were available in the mess of the nearby Purang Hotel where the Nepalase cooks provided good meals of lentils, rice and parathas and regular snacks of tea and tiffin. Due to shared cultural and linguistic ties, Nepalese were the friendliest people here in an otherwise aloof bearing."

"We frequented a few grocery shops for chocolates, oxygen sprays, and toiletries and found some shopkeepers, though not all, accepted Indian currencies too at an exchange rate of Rs. 12 Indian rupee to 1 China’s Yuan.

"Due to low levels of oxygen and gusty chilly winds, walking became slightly laboured. Also, as idle tourism and photography was strictly forbidden, with large signages posted to that effect, all tourists confined themselves indoors and the streets remained deserted mostly."

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"We departed by bus at 11 AM from Purang and an hour later halted for 10 mins at a desolate shore of Lake Rakshastal (Lanka Pso). It was one of the windiest places of our lives and the winds blew our caps and mufflers in no time. The aquatic and avian life avoid the lake due to the high salinity.

"We briefly halted at a Buddhist hamlet of Gossul Gompa for a change of buses, snacks and a break for washrooms. We also saw the fabled Chiu Gompa later in the journey. It was the final resting place for the Indian Guru Rinpoche (Padma Sambhava) who introduced Buddhism in Tibet in the 8th Century. His footprint and statute are preserved in the cave and monastry. The monastry overlooks the entire valley, and has its base the Ganga Chu river and a hotspring.

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This also leaves, then, no doubts regarding the motives behind the deliberately kept primitive facilities that Indian travellers to Kailash Manasarovar complex must suffer.

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"The plateaued countryside was a vast grassland with herds of buffaloes and mules grazing and sights of sparrows and cranes flocking the lake."

Beautiful photographs here, beginning with a wide angle panoramic shot titled "(The first glimpse of Kailash Mountain)", followed by another one of Manasarovar.

"For the more devout pilgrims walking the entire 90-100 kms on foot for 3-4 days, there were very few hamlets with mud huts and rest houses in-between and the risk of fatal exposure to cold harsh weather was indeed high in these makeshift night shelters. Rarer devotees have been known to cover these lengths by lying flat on the ground and then standing and repeating the process, taking several weeks. Devotion knows no bounds.

"Upon completion of the circumambulation, we halted to ritually dip at the Manasarovar Lake. While the waters were the usual chilly (as at the banks of Himalayan rivers at Haridwar etc), it was the icy winds and the uneven pebbled shore, which hastened us all to the warm clothes after a few quick dips. Longer exposure was not recommended for the health and one of our senior colleagues faced health issues and had to recover in the bus with warm water, medications and sleep. We performed a small fire altar worship (Pooja and Havan) aided by Nepalese guide’s suggestions of using dry grasses to shield the altar fire against the high winds. An year later, another travel group in the family informed us that a small Glass Hall has been built for the convenience of pilgrims to conduct the fire-altar ritual without the interference from the winds."

A photograph of the said ceremony follows here.

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"From Manasarovar Lake, it took half an hour on good, metalled road to reach Mount Kailash’s base village – Dharchen (Bagaxiang).

"Dharchen / Darchen / Tarchen is an ancient nomadic outpost for sheep and cattle herders, called Parga or Kangsa locally. Chinese refer to the place as Bagaxiang. It is a mile-long town with a few guesthouses and restaurants and ethnic Tibetan artifact shops. The circumambulation (parikrama) of the mountain is for 40-50 kms covered in 2-3 days on foot, starting and ending at Dharchen. A rough trail leads for another 2 kms to Yamdwar – the last motor-accessible point offering the closest vista to Mount Kailash.

"We alighted from the bus to the mystical sight of a small brightly colored temple - Deoghar - at the middle of the valley with the austere Mount Kailash towering above. We briefly prayed to the mountain deity - Lord Shiva - thanking him for the invitation and the opportunity to greet him from so closeby.

"The temple is built like a gateway and remains vacant inside. We followed the custom of leaving a piece of garment or cloth at its altar, and circling it three times.

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"Everybody felt so mesmerized and hoped to return here again, this time with the intention of completing the Outer & Inner Parikrama (Kora) as well.

"Nearby is a tall Tibetan Prayer Staff mounted annually with strings of prayer-letters written on coloured cloths with the belief that the prayers shall ascend the heavens and the wishes shall be fulfilled.

"A solar-powered mobile antenna ensured that those with roaming activated for China communicated the news to their families back in India.

"We left Yamdwar at 4:30 PM and reached Purang by dusk at 6:30 PM. Some tourists dozed off soundly, exhausted by the weather-induced tiredness and had to be coaxed to have their meals."

Here, photograph of the temple, followed by another one of the Buddhists prayer flags streaming from a tall (metal?) pole, illustrate the text.

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Surprisingly the trip description ends here, or at last, already turns to description of return.

So there are no details of a parikrama here, perhaps because this traveller did not perform it.

Which means, no intimate experience of vision of Mount Kailash either, or photographs thereof.

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"The next day we were ready for the return after our morning meals at 11 AM. We boarded the buses for the customary clearance of luggage at the Customs Office at Purang, reached Hilsa by noon, stamped our passports again at Nepal’s Customs Office-camp and reached Simikot in helicopter-batches of 5-6 passengers. At Simikot, we lunched at the town’s most beautiful Hotel Sun Valley Resort and enjoyed the panoramic view of the airstrip and the valley, waiting for the return flight to Nepalgunj.

"Due to inclement weather, the flights weren’t operating to Nepalgunj but the tour agent managed affairs with the Nepal Army’s Chopper. These Choppers transport oil drums and other necessary victuals to Simikot and could accommodate 30 tourists on their return trip, but the flight was only till Surkhet Airstrip. This caused a commotion among the tourists as some could make it into the list of 30 passengers while others were accommodated at Simikot’s hotels by the Tour Agents for an overnight stay.

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"Our Army helicopter experience was quite memorable - 30 people fit tightly along the helicopter’s inner sides, encircling our luggage heaped and tied at the centre. The helicopter reached Surkhet after 40 mins and 2 buses soon arrived to transfer us to Nepalgunj. The journey from Surkhet to Nepalgunj was somewhat jarring due to the nightfall and drizzle, forested mountainous landscape, irregular quality of hilly roads and a tyre-burst in the dense jungle. We covered these 90 kms in 4 hours, reaching Nepalgunj by 9 PM, just-in-time for the dinner.

"The next day, those among us who stayed back at Simikot too had reached Nepalgunj by 9 AM by proper flights. We all together reached Lucknow by 2 PM and wished each other goodbye at the railway station.

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"Kailash Mansarovar Yatra may have been physically over, but the journey remained etched in our memories for the serenity and tranquillity of the holy sites, vast wilderness of the open nature, simplicity of the people, adventures of the travel and the experience of it all in just 4-5 days !!!"

So the official tour conducted by government of India does not include Pradakshinaa?

Or is it optional?

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"The Journey is an exchange with the Nature.

"You part your earthly concerns with her,

"And depart with some of her vastness with you."

Effort to minimise India and her ancient culture, there?

Nature, as such, is quite abundant in Serengeti, or Sahara, middle of Pacific Ocean and Antarctica, too. Or jungles of Borneo, Outback of Australia, and Siberia too, for that matter!

Was this trip undertaken, then, just to sell this empty brochure?

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"Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) under Govt. of India has been organizing Kailash Manasarovar Yatra (KMY) annually since 1978 through the Lipu Lekh Pass (Uttarakhand). Due to massive floods in Uttarakhand in 2013, a second route was also opened from Nathu La (Sikkim) in 2015 which was shorter and convenient."

How's that possibly shorter? Motorable, shorter duration, possibly.

"Route 1: Lipu Lekh Pass (Uttarakhand) Route carries 18 batches of 60 members each. The duration is of 25 days and cost per person is approx. Rs.1.5 Lakh.

"Route 2: Nathu La (Sikkim) Route carries 5 batches of 50 members each. The duration is of 23 days and cost per person is approx. Rs.1.7 Lakh."

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"Eligibility for KMY under MEA

"MEA allows undertaking the Yatra for religious purpose on following terms for the applicants:

"1. An Indian passport holder (with 6 month of validity). Foreigners, even with PIO and OCI cards are ineligible.

"2. Age: 18 - 70 years

"3. Body Mass Index (BMI): 27 or less

"4. Not suffering from medical conditions such as high blood pressure, diabetes, asthma, heart disease, epilepsy, etc.

"5. Clears medical examinations by Delhi Heart and Lung Institute (DHLI) and ITBP Base Hospital at Delhi. Reports from other medical institutes are unacceptable.

"6. Clears additional medical test for high altitude trekking in low oxygen environment at ITBP Camp at Gunji for route via Lipulekh Pass, and at Sherathang camp for the route via Nathu La Pass."

"At any stage, travelers found medically unfit or with false or incomplete information in the application form, are not permitted further and charges of non-refundable deposit, medical examinations, and some others, are forfeited."

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"Cost of Journey

"The total cost of Journey varies from Rs. 1.5 Lakh onwards per person ... "

Author provides a table with break up in detail. Surprisingly, the najor part is

"6. USD 801(Rs. 58,000) Chinese authorities for lodging, meals, transporting baggage, pony at Lipulekh Pass, tickets for Kailash and Manasarovar, and USD 1 for Immigration Fee."

Surprisingly, because it seems modest, until one realises that this only includes Kailash Manasarovar Darshan, and Manasarovar Pradakshinaa, but not Kailash Pradakshinaa.

Other travelogues - using private tour operators, and giving descriptions of the Kailash Pradakshinaa, make it clear that charges for porter and /or mule are separate and set up by personal dealings with the said porters, usually Tibetan.

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"It is recommended to provision a separate expense of Rs. 25,000 onwards, for the following:

"1. For hiring of ponies and handlers, for those undertaking the Kailash Parikrama in Tibet.

"2. For hiring or ponies and handlers, for the stretch from Narayan Ashram to Lipulekh Pass and back.

"3. For special meals, services of local cooks and purchase of vegetables, milk etc

"4. For purchase of items mid-way like winter clothes, caps, walking sticks, raincoats, medications, batteries etc

"5. For any unforeseen situations, unplanned halts, or delays."

................................................................................................

"Mt. Kailash and the Burang County has four seasons:

"The period from Dec – Mar is the coldest with sub-zero temperatures.

"The period from Apr-May is pleasant and tourists start arriving.

"The period from Jun- Aug is relatively warm and sees the highest inflow of tourists. It also rains during this period.

"The period from Sep – Nov gets cooler and sees a gradual decline in tourists."

Author provides detailed table with temperatures.

................................................................................................

"Month - Max - Avg - Min - Rain (mm)

"Jan -3.8 -9.7 -15.6 46

"Feb -2.7 -8.5 -14.2 30

"Mar 0.2 -5.1 -10.3 46

"Apr 5.7 -0.9 -7.4 27

"May 11.8 4.6 -2.6 30

"Jun 13.5 6.8 0.1 35

"Jul 13.7 8.3 2.9 114

"Aug 13.2 8.0 2.8 125

"Sep 10.8 5.0 -0.8 59

"Oct 5.9 -0.9 -7.7 25

"Nov -0.6 -5.8 -12.1 7

"Dec -2.0 -8.2 -14.4 17"

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"The chart is confusing, since it seems more about altitudes given in meters and feet, but author mentions distance - and its completely unclear, from what or where exactly.

"Place Altitude (m) / (ft) Intra-Distance (km)

"Delhi 216 710 0

"Lucknow 123 400 554

"Nepalgunj 150 490 189

"Simikot 2910 9,550 215

"Hilsa 3640 11,940 95

"Purang 4775 13,200 60

"Manasarovar 4590 15,060 122

"Darchen 4575 15,010 35

"Darchen-Yamdwar 4724 15,500 6

"Yamdwar – Dirapuk 4630 15,120 12

"Dirapuk – Zuthulpuk 5630 18,470 22

"Zuthulpuk – Chongdo 4660 15,288 8

"Mount Kailash Peak 6638 21,780-"

Looking at the table clears it - distance is either from Delhi or between two points, and altitudes are clear.

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CONTENTS

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An Introduction to Kailash Manasarovar

Kailash Manasarovar Yatra (KMY)

Day 1: Journey Begins from Delhi to Nepalgunj

Day 2: A washout affair at Nepalgunj

Day 3: Middle Earth at Simikot & Hilsa

Day 4: Kailash & Manasarovar

Day 5: The Return

Things to Remember

Kailash Manasarovar Yatra by MEA

Shopping

Climate

Elevation & Distance Chart

References

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REVIEW

................................................................................................

Introduction

................................................................................................

"some dream of journeying up here,

"And having been here,

"they wonder for the rest of their days,

"if it was a dream!"

................................................................................................

" ... One of the most revered of these spiritual sanctuaries, is the surreal sight of the snow-clad Kailash Mountain across the pristine waves of the Manasarovar Lake.

"MOUNT KAILASH"

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"The Holy Significance