INTO THE UNTRAVELLED HIMALAYA: Travels, Treks and Climbs, by Harish Kapadia.

................................................................................................

INTO THE UNTRAVELLED HIMALAYA:

Travels, Treks and Climbs, by Harish Kapadia

................................................................................................

If one loves Himalaya, or mountaineering, the book is worth reading. Worth keeping for photographs, and maps.

Kapadia describes various separate regions of Himalaya, from Kailash and Manasarovar to Tibet in general, at least the parts thereof that he's visited, and then on to various parts within India and Bhutan, Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh, and more.

................................................................................................

Kapadia has sentiments regarding the Himalaya but not exactly in line with India's love and reverence for Himalaya since antiquity.

Which can be as disconcerting as his declaring that Chinese individuals can be nice, despite India's doctrine to the contrary.

Even during the worst of 1962 war, there was no such propaganda to the effect Kapadia more than insinuates, from or in India. With the strongest possible feelings about 1962 for someone who saw neighbours leaving in trucks, neighbours who were fathers of schoolmates, and still would prefer to avoid buying anything made in China, this strong feeling didn't stop us loving Chinese food in India- or US or UK, for that matter, except for when the restaurant staff was hostile. Which happened more than once.

................................................................................................

Kapadia is candid admitting -

And yet, such are the regions that inspired James Hilton's Lost Horizon and his Shangri-La.

"For almost 18 km towards the northwest and across for a similar distance, vast and flat plains extended. When I showed pictures of the Depsang Plains to one of my climber friends, he remarked, ‘Wow, this is a high altitude Golf Course!’ Some golf course and some imagination!

"Originally the trail from here till the Karakoram Pass was lined with bones so that caravans could follow a route in case of bad weather and in snow. However, many things have now changed. In 1962, the Chinese army invaded the Depsang plains, pushing the Indian Army down the Chhongtash gorge. The graves of the Indian soldiers are to be seen here. The Chinese army declared an unilateral ceasefire and withdrew towards the east, but at a vantage point overlooking the Depsang plains. We could see the aluminium sheets over the Chinese posts reflecting the sunlight. The bones are now replaced by jerry cans. There is a rough jeepable road. Yes, a jeepable road which leads from Depsang la almost till Karakoram Pass. On both sides of the road jerry cans line the route. These cans, named after German soldiers, (nick-named ‘jerrys’ during the World War II) are now playing their part on this historic plateau; apart from containing kerosene oil they guide travellers, army bunkers were built by making a wall by piling them up and they are even used as chairs."

Indeed, such are the regions that inspired James Hilton's Lost Horizon and his Shangri-La.

................................................................................................

" ... Another fort was built at Sumur by the Ladakhi king to offer complete security. About 300 years before the Mongolian army had invaded Ladakh. This fort is known as Tsogmak (Tsog–Mongolian, mak-troops). Their army conquered territories till Leh where one of their senior generals was killed. He was buried under ‘Namgyal Tsemo’ the semo on a hill above Leh. However much of this history may be debatable and unknown, but certainly the forts are worth preserving as one of the landmarks of the past.2"

Throughout the book, Kapadia seems, not only anxious to credit muslims where traditions might have been of far older origin (or to claim that those traditions were due to the religion when in fact they were far older), but even anxious to veil historic facts, by discrediting implications of local nomenclature and traditional history, such as the name of a fort in Ladakh, which was even built specifically to defend against Mongol invasions!

And this is about a phenomenon unrelated to a religion.

So while left in India feels free to verbally offend West, even while taking care to go only thus far and no further, fear of giving offense to previous colonial regimes extends to kowtowing to Mongol invaders who'd not only invaded and sought to conquer India, but gone along and burned whole cities, villages and people therein, from Persia to Russia?

................................................................................................

"We were staying in army bunkers at base camp on the Siachen Glacier. In the next room I could hear my son, Nawang, then a young man of 20 years, talking with equally young lieutenants and captains of the Indian army. They were discussing their exploits on the glacier, the war and agitatedly talking about the friends being wounded and killed all around them. ... They were ready to guard it with their life, they meant well. My son, excited with the prospect of defending the country with other young officers, worked hard and joined the Indian army as a Gorkha Officer. Soon thereafter he fell to a terrorist bullet in this bloody war in Kashmir. ... "

................................................................................................

"Mountains have traditionally been haven for people seeking peace and spiritual solace. Nowhere has this been more so than in the Himalaya. It is ironical than that it is in the Himalaya, or to be more exact in the Karakoram, that a bitter and deadly, heroic but absurd conflict is being fought. Now for 20 long years armed forces of India and Pakistan have fought for the control of the Saltoro ridge which guards the Siachen Glacier towards its west. This is the highest battlefield in the world and India occupies the entire Siachen Glacier but at a great price."

This would be true of Tibet, if India had defended it. As it is China is claiming all of Himalaya and stray speakers of Chinese origin are laughing at India on television channels telling India "your problem is Himalaya ", not giving a fraction of a thought or consideration to love and reverence Himalaya us held throughout India for millennia since the very beginning of Himalaya rising out of the ocean that separated India from Asia.

But the first PM of India refused to even bring Tibet to attention of UN, or allow such a question by another nation, much less defend Tibet or even protest military occupation thereof.

So Kapadia speaks of Karakoram but not of Himalaya in all its reach being occupied by Chinese forces.

This is the moment before Krishna spoke, in Mahabharata war, prolonged to over half a century, because an Arjuna was sidelined by an elder in favour of a Yudhisthira who was always more amenable to opposite camp than to his own, and sitting with his head in his hands after losing a wife in a bet he had no right to make, as she pointed out. Neither India nor Himalaya were theirs to give, but the Arjuna had been exiled.

................................................................................................

"It was in this situation that we started working for a proposal for Trans-boundary Peace Park. This would ultimately enable both the armies to withdraw in conditions of honour and dignity and it would not prejudice their positions in Kashmir as a whole. It would stop further degradation of a magnificent mountain area, save hundreds of lives, billions of rupees and possibly give an indicator to solve the Kashmir imbroglio."

It's naive thought, imagining that a movement copying Vinoba Bhave and his goodwill expeditions after independence - one regarding landlords, landholdings and redistribution of land to benefit landless, accomplished via goodwill and gifts; another that of surrender by dacoits of Chambal region.

"Boundary Parks are not a new idea. The first one, Waterton Glacier International Peace Park between Canada and US was established 70 years ago and today there are 169 such parks, involving 113 countries. Several of these trans-boundary parks are specifically designated as Peace Parks, which are intended to provide a peaceful solution to a conflict or a potential conflict or rehabilitation of an area after a conflict. In Asia and around India the concept of trans-boundary parks is well known for there are parks between India and Bhutan, India and Nepal, Pakistan and China and Nepal and China. There has been a dramatic increase in trans-boundary parks in the recent years, a demonstration of their viability and usefulness. In 1988 there were 50 parks as against 169 today. There are plans for few more trans-boundary parks."

Worse than naive, it's as dangerous, bordering on suicidal, as Gandhi insisting that the then new Government of India force refugees from across the new border in North-West, to return across the border, even if it were only to be massacred by those who had massacred over ten millions already.

Worse, it's as dangerous as the then PM of India subsequently not only stopping the Indian military from proceeding to liberate rest of Kashmir, but then going on to not protect occupation of Tibet by military forces of China, refusing to raise the question in Tibet, and doing nothing about Chinese appropriation of a huge amount of territory in Aksai Chin.

Withdrawal of forces in any region of Himalaya would only involve the two untrustworthy nations who have occupied the lands with force, to inch further - by several thousands of square miles.

................................................................................................

"One very strong supporter and mover of this idea was Aamir Ali who lives in Geneva and having worked for the United Nations, knew how to approach this matter. We prepared brief notes and plans and sent it to various officials and organisations in India and Pakistan. But with these countries at the height of war in the 1990s, our proposals hit a blank wall. When I met one of the senior secretaries in the Government of India, he dismissed the idea with contempt and even raised the usual Indian question, ‘why is a foreigner and a Muslim (Aamir Ali) interested in the Siachen Glacier?’2 Officials refused to listen to my pleas, suggesting that all I could do was to file a public interest litigation in the Supreme Court. Fortunately the Indian army was more open to this idea. Today most of the senior officers are in know of this plan and supportive of it. Of course, without their political masters deciding in the matter no further aims can be achieved, at least in India."

The very next paragraph raises a question, were these efforts at correspondence being carried through the Kargil war, or begun thereafter?

It's hardly possible that the responses he quotes from Indian army were during or after that treacherous war, when several soldiers sacrificed their lives!

................................................................................................

"The political tranquillity and climate again changed and stopped all rounds of negotiations between India and Pakistan. Finally on 13th December 2001, armed militants attacked the Indian Parliament and the troops were moved. The countries were on the brink of war. One had to keep the hope that situations change, people change and the dawn always comes only after the darkest period. And we waited for dawn on the Siachen. Positive signs seemed to emerge as the idea was kept alive."

Kapadia mentions 2001 attack specifically, but not the Kargil war!

Wonder why!

................................................................................................

"I saw further signs of hope. First was at the Banff Film Festival in Canada where I could interact with a group of senior IUCN representatives. They seemed interested and we formed a small committee. With their contacts in Pakistan, we could carry the matter to the right quarters there too. But the advice from both the Governments was to keep the issue open, lie low and push it gently. That’s what we kept on doing. In 2001, the area of Aletsch, the longest glacier in the Alps, was designated as a World Heritage site. We thought, why not aim for the same for the longest glacier in the Himalaya? Major support from UIAA3 gave a major fillip to the Siachen Peace Park proposal, which in collaboration with the IUCN4 started taking keen interest in the matter. The UIAA supported and organised a ‘Summit Climb’ in the Alps where Indian and Pakistani mountaineers would participate together. And so it was Mandip Singh Soin and myself from India and Nazir Sabir and Col. Sher Khan who from Pakistan teamed up in Geneva and stood on the summit of the Monch peak. On the summit, perhaps for the first time in several years, flags of India and Pakistan were unfurled together on any mountain in the world signifying that we mountaineers and environmentalist appeal together for peace in the mountains, a fact particularly significant in the ‘International Year of Mountains’ in 2002."

Naiveté at best, dangerous in reality.

................................................................................................

"No sooner, Indian and Pakistani mountaineers met in Geneva, we realised how much we had in common at a people to people level; we spoke the same language we had the same tastes in music, we had same interests (Nazir, a cricket buff like me, kept suggesting, to the former President of Switzerland5, ‘Sir lets play cricket between our two nations, even before we climb mountains’). There was a strong desire for all of us to visit each other’s countries. We realised that it was only political differences that kept us apart. At no time during the climb, tied to the same rope, did it matter to me that my companion was a Pakistani or a Muslim and to him that I was an Indian or a Hindu- our lives depended on each other. 6"

Be that as it may, to those who died for no fault of theirs by attacks through terrorists sent from the terrorist factory across the border, it did matter, one might bet safely - whether in Taj or in local trains, stadium in Hyderabad or while shopping in a middle class local suburban market in New Delhi.

................................................................................................

"Several recent developments have led the world community, specially the mountain lovers, to pay attention to solving the conflict and lend help to rejuvenate the glacier. This includes the Italian Ev-K2-CNR Committee’s proposal to push for a Siachen Peace Park as part of its commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of K2 and at the World Parks Congress in Durban in September 2003. Talks were held after a long time between India and Pakistan to discuss various issues, specially the Siachen. (I write this in March 2004 and perhaps situation may have turned for the better by the time you read this.). And – India and Pakistan played cricket in March 2004 after more than a decade!"

That certainly did not stop the terrorist attacks, in fact a major one came soon post this - the most famous one, in fact; attacks against Taj and other targets in Mumbai were within less than five years post his "India and Pakistan played cricket in March 2004 after more than a decade", and while congress was in power in centre!

................................................................................................

"At present, armed military men still face each other across the ridges of the Siachen. On both sides of the line of control, it is said that to honour the blood of brave soldiers that has been spilled, not an inch of territory should be given up. One could say even with more force that the sacrifice of brave men could best be honoured by protecting this spectacular mountain area consecrated by their sacrifice. Again the wheels of peace are moving positively and there is a complete ceasefire in fighting in Kashmir and particularly on the heights of the Siachen for last few months. ... "

Naiveté bordering on stupidity, that!

Or is Kapadia attempting to make up for the sacrifice of his son's life, to a bullet from a terrorist, in Kashmir?

" ... If the peace returns, the concept of the trans-boundary peace park would fit well in giving a positive dimension to the process. It would work not only towards disengagement, but towards the creation of a park to protect the environment to allow the ibexes and snow leopards to roam, the wild roses to grow and the mountaineers to return to the Siachen Glacier. A majestic area of mountain landscape redolent with the romance of early exploration deserves the best. Our youth, be they soldier or civilian, Pakistani or Indian, they deserve to enjoy such an area."

Dangerous naiveté, considering not only that the nonstop terrorist attacks that were held back only a little, post surgical strikes by India, and the demonetisation, but basically continue.

True, it's far less post 2014 than it had been during UPA decade, but that won't happen if military were withdrawn at any point of border.

Dangerous naiveté, considering not only that the nonstop terrorist attacks that were held back only a little, post surgical strikes by India, and the demonetisation, but basically continue - but also Bharatpur.

As long ago as during early 1990s, it'd been noted that the famous bird sanctuary in Bharatpur was suffering, due to the migratory flocks from Central Asia and Siberia being reduced alarmingly to paltry numbers, due chiefly to bring shot fown in their flight over Pakistan.

Since then, starvation situation in that country was discussed on internet and on television shows in Pakistan channels, describing poor having been reduced to eating things one would not describe, apart from donkeys, used more relevantly for transport due to shortage of fuel and situation of financial disaster in Pakistan.

Whatever makes Kapadia imagine that Siachen, or any other part in or near Pakistan, would be safe haven for Ibex, or any other beautiful fauna, birds or anything else, as long as people of Pakistan can access the region without intervention and being stopped from hunting the fauna and birds to extinction?

A glacier wouldn't stop them!

................................................................................................

"‘We are nations linked by Himalayan geography. Nations, which do not understand and respect geography are condemned by history. Governments and people of both countries should realise that there is a humanity that binds us together. Whatever our game, and whichever our side of the fence’.7

"With peace returning to the glacier, there are several proposals to clean up the glacier (involvement of world community and its finances are a very distinct possibility) and there is a proposal that civilian mountaineers from both sides could walk up the glacier from their respective fences and shake hands at the border pass, unfurl their own national flags and bring that spirit displayed in the Alps to reality on the Siachen Glacier."

Dangerous naiveté, indeed. There's no guarantee there won't be a terrorist amongst that handshaking mob, is there, or would they be frisked by Indian military before approaching the fence? Say, fifty miles before the border?

Really Kapadia should have known better, having trekked siachen strictly in dark of night, due to danger during day, during light hours, of enemy fire!

................................................................................................

England didn't go to war eager either for WWI or WWII, remember! People in England had cheered Neville Chamberlain like crazy, in tears, when he'd returned from Munich, having browbeaten Czechoslovakia into surrendering, breaking treaties by England and renaming on the military protection promised to Czechoslovakia by those treaties - just as Indian did to Tibet!

1962 was follow-up therefore by China as logical as WWII was that of Munich, and if subsequently India wasn't reduced to a Poland or a France or even Russia of 1941, its only because JFK helped India, when asked by the then PM of India confidentially, by sending a quiet message to China.

Kapadia mentions China's 'unilateral withdrawal and ceasefire' repeatedly, but neither why, nor the fact that Chinese promises aren't worth the paper thry are written on, even if it were only recycled paper.

................................................................................................

"Tibet, known as the roof of the world, has a reputation to be remote and difficult for travel. During my three visits to this charming land, I experienced exactly the opposite. A flight takes you to Lhasa easily or there are roads to drive in. Lhasa itself is like a mini Hong Kong, and roads though not highways, are comfortable enough to travel.

"During my visits, spread over five years and by different routes, I was able to observe Tibet from different angles; infrastructural development, religious hegemony, Chinese rule, interaction with Tibetans and Indian connections with Tibet. All this, coupled with its long history and its present ,"

That last bit seems more of indication of censorship dealt with Indian Express style circa 1975-77, rather than a doubly clumsy typo.

................................................................................................

"My last visit to Tibet started exactly to the day, 100 years after the Younghusband expedition in 1904. Younghusband marched through a prominent chorten in front of the Potala palace and ‘unveiled Lhasa’. Tibet today is fast developing as a major destination. Within few years it may be a different world. But the main occupant of the Potala, the Dalai Lama is in India and not allowed to return. He is revered by every Tibetan and has declared recently to accept the Chinese rule for peace and progress of his people. These are the choices for this wonderful country."

If anything, this remote roof of the world ought to have been left alone and protected as a spiritual retreat for Earth, not a mini Hong Kong, and not at the expense of its inhabitants.

................................................................................................

All this talk of Tibet bring developed by China and lhasa being mini Hong Kong only bring to mind the deliberately kept filthy the nature of facilities used by pilgrims to Kailash-Mansarovar from India, which comes through in the two separate accounts by tracellers from India who were avowedly not religious.

................................................................................................

"In the old pictures a big shantytown is seen opposite the Potala. This area has been cleared by ‘cajoling’ occupants to move to the outskirts. The square has been beautified and is now a major tourist attraction called Potala Square. It wears a festive look with several Chinese statutes and a four-lane highway passing at the foot of the Potala. Lhasa and surroundings have excellent roads and well planned townships. Fancy streetlights, taxis, museums, huge bill board signs, posh hotels and bright coloured restaurants gives it a feel of Hong Kong. Progress yes, but then ideologically no one has any say, least of all the Tibetans, as to whether they want this progress or what it means to them. Schools teach Tibetan as a language, locals can travel to mainland China and many are employed in the tourism industry. No political dissent is tolerated and no one is ready to voice any views, specially as many Han Chinese have settled in Tibet and are in position of power."

Interesting typo, 'statutes', when he meant statues.

Aren't communists opposed to idol worship?

Isn't erecting of statues idol worship?

................................................................................................

"In centre of the Potala square flutters the Chinese flag near the site of a pillar that was erected in 821 signifying the Sino-Tibetan treaty. This treaty gave China the first foothold in Tibet, roots of their claim date thus far back. It was again at this place under the 1959 ‘Lhasa uprising’ hundreds of Tibetans had gathered to protest. They were dispersed and the Dalai Lama fled to India. Rest, as they say, is history.4"

................................................................................................

"The spiritual centre of Lhasa is the Jokhang temple with the Barkhor circuit around it. At anytime of the year you will find devout pilgrims from far away villages, performing chham, the Tibetan way of bowing to the deity. It wore a colourful look and in small stalls in the mall, statues of Mao were being sold with that of Buddha! Near the temple and in Potala square, boards were pasted with Chinese circulars and statues of liberated peasantry were erected in Beijing style. Tibetans read them with curiosity. They seem to be living without much fear and not much poverty was evident –less than you would see in India. The three monasteries around Lhasa are as ancient as holy. Sera is the nearest one with Ganden and Drepung a little away. Each of these represented a way of life with hundreds of lamas being trained here. When we visited, they seemed to be flourishing, well maintained and with several lamas performing rituals. Norbulinka, the summer palace of the Dalai Lama was another attraction. With its Japanese style garden and long walls it was peaceful haven for his holiness when he stayed here. A large radio, presented by the Prime Minster of India in 1952 is displayed and one wonders how it must have been ferried across passes by humans and mules."

One doesn't recall mention of the extermination camps by any foreign visitors or diplomatic corps of any countries during 1930-1945 in Germany, either. Few writers dared be blacklisted, but those who did, too, were not aware of the extermination, not until the conquering armies of Russia and West discovered them, or even later, until Nuremberg trials and the documentary film footage that shut up disbelief in the inhuman conduct by the regime.

................................................................................................

"Younghusband Mission

"Soon it was time for us to start on our journey across the Tibetan plateau. In 2004 the road to Gyantse was being repaired and widened into a four-lane highway. Soon a wide road from Gyantse to Yatung would be joining the road from Nathu la in Sikkim and to Kolkata. As per the agreement reached between India and China large container traffic from the warm water port of Kolkata would drive across this road to supply Lhasa, giving fillip to trade and bring supplies to Lhasa directly rather than driving across the entire Chinese mainland."

So India helps China supply the Chinese occupation army in Lhasa et AL, and China attacks India promptly at Galwan.

Well done, UPA.

................................................................................................

"We passed the beautiful Yamdrok Tso (lake), Karo la and the foot of Nojin Kang peak. From your car you are within a touching distance of its icefall. Nakartse was as dirty at it can be. In fact throughout our travels in Tibet, we always wished for better hygiene, one thing that has been missing in development of tourism beyond Lhasa. As a rule toilets were dirty, rooms and streets left much to be desired. Gyantse township was being improved with wider roads and celebrations to mark the 100th anniversary of Younghusband’s expedition year were under way, called ‘The Younghusband invasion and the defeat of British’. The Gyantse fort, in centre of town, witnessed fights between Younghusband’s troop led by General McDonald and Tibetan forces. Today as one climbs up to the Gyantse fort, at the entrance there is ‘The British Hate Museum’. It contains stories of how brave Tibetans defeated the British. Of course history records that Tibetans were soundly beaten, but not without a fight. From the early part of the last century deceptions by Chinese and twisting of history has remained their hallmark."

Of course.

That whole claim by China to Tibet was, is, has been a lie.

................................................................................................

"Little before Saga, a major military station, a bifurcation leads north going across very inhospitable terrain. It was this route that I had followed during my second trip to Tibet. Immediately after the bifurcation is one of the wonders of this plateau ‘the Geysers’. Huge springs of hot water burst out into the sky and splash over a vast area. Many small bubbles of sulphur water also pour out. There is a small rest house and geological study station maintained by the Chinese government . The road ahead becomes rougher and rougher and no human settlement is seen . We passed Zari Namtso lake, and almost on its shore stands a small township of the Tsochen (Coquen). Further north we were on the Shinquen-Amdo ‘highway’ and turned west passing Gertse and Gakyi to reach Shinquen which borders Ladakh. This was a barren stretch to drive through but amidst cold winds we would suddenly find a large flock of sheep grazing on the stony plateau. We always wondered, ‘grazing’ what? When we stopped, curious shepherds would gather around and look at us without making any trouble . All nomads have standardized quarters on the outskirts of towns. Much of the population consists of Han Chinese who have been given incentives to come and settle here. Many herds of Tibetan antelope ran along the road, unafraid of our cars. We heard the stories of Chinese soldiers using guns to hunt wildlife while travelling on this route."

On Google maps, some of the names yield nothing to search, not only since Chinese names are different but perhaps Google maps are not allowed to locate the place by original tibetan names, unless and until exact new names and spellings are used.

But Kapadia, again, very helpfully gives a map of the region he speaks of.

................................................................................................

"Most of the time after driving 200 kms, with no human beings in sight, suddenly a modern township would spring up from nowhere, for example Tsochen. It had bank (China Bank exchanging dollars), hotels, modern amenities, water supply, school (Chinese teachers), telephones (China telecom, mobile phones, internet), postal facilities (China Post which operates daily services) and good restaurants (mainly Chinese) and of course, the Chinese army garrison quarters. One wonders what these people eat, work and why they are settled at these smaller towns."

Changing the DNA of Tibet, hoping Tibet’s natives are forgotten, if not extinguished.

................................................................................................

"Shinquen (old Ali) was the largest town in western Tibet – with nightclubs and a Disco! A special Tourist guesthouse is built here and permits are checked at a local Tibetan office lined with posters of Indian film actors and Indian film music playing! It was a huge military headquarter with a small airstrip and it was from here that Chinese troops attacked India in 1962. The Aksai Chin road starts from here linking it to Central Asia; Khotan, Yarkand and Kashgar. The war was fought by the Chinese to protect this illegal road running through Indian territories. Today regular bus services operate on this route for locals and tourists.

"Rutok (Rudok) was on the banks of the Pangong Lake, which is 2/3rd in China and 1/3rd in Ladakh. Having visited this lake in Ladakh, I compared with amazement the features and water of this lake. Like territories, even water was caught between the two political giants.

................................................................................................

"On return, one of the Tibetan guides cajoled us to climb a small hill, called ‘Lovers Hill’. It offered a magnificent view of the great Himalayan range dividing this part of China and Himachal Pradesh of India. Leo Pargial (Rio Purgial) rising above the Satluj gorge, Shipki la pass, Gya and all the peaks were clearly visible.6 But amazingly we also saw a large cantonment of the Chinese army with a huge star of People’s Liberation Army painted on the hill and an airstrip behind it. It seemed that the Chinese did not mind tourists overlooking their military establishments, which I would have found it difficult to believe anywhere else. We were photographing the mountain peaks with a telephoto lens, when suddenly a group of Chinese soldiers were seen approaching us. ‘It looks like now we will return via Beijing’, I murmured. But the soldiers were also tourists like us, they came, looked at us, looked through our lenses at the peaks and murmuring verly good, verly good ran down smiling! From Shinquen we drove to Demchok , which is about couple of kilometres from the Indian border and the Indus, for a brief visit. Across the political line stood the Indian Demchok. A small monastery was all that it had to offer. What really surprised us was that our Indian passports did not deter the Chinese to allow us travel to any border areas as long as we had paid our fees and our visas were stamped with these places marked on it. In fact throughout my three visits no officials, army or administration ever raised any objections to my Indian passport or ever looked up with a suspicious glance."

But any straying, such as private conversations with tibetans unreconciled to Chinese occupation, would immediately have been reported, and acted on, safe bet.

................................................................................................

"Now we were to enter the third part of Tibet, where the holy places of Kailash, Manasarovar, Tirthapuri and Tholing math are situated. Some of these areas has strong associations with India as many Hindu pilgrims throng here nowadays."

When did they not?

It was, always, much more a question of possibility, than of wishes. Pilgrims from India had, always, trekked to the various remote places of Pilgrimage in Himalaya, despite all hardships, then too. And now too, hardships aren't all that different, especially at Kailash-Mansarovar, what with facilities by China being primitive.

................................................................................................

"Trek from Nepal to Western Tibet

"During my first visit to Tibet, I had trekked across the border from Nepal, a most favoured route for trekkers. We flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and Simikot. Trekking along the Karnali we slowly gained ground to reach the border across Nara la (pass). On some stones we saw slogans Maowadi Zindabad (Hail Mao Communists). Little did we realize that this was the starting of trouble, which has engulfed western Nepal today and stopped any approach through this route. Soon we approached the border where a stone marked ‘The Entry point into Tibet’. It was ironically erected in early 1962 when China had solved its border problems with Nepal but later in the same year attacked India for the same problem. We passed our first huge monastery of Khojarnath. This monastery being situated next to the border was saved from destruction during the infamous Cultural Revolution, when the hardened band of Red Guards destroyed much of the cultural heritage of Tibet. The Lamas ran away across the border with almost everything and returned after the fury was over. It has huge Hindu influence and many parts have paintings of Hindu Gods and Goddesses."

Needless to say, neither Khojarnath nor "gompa near ..." leads to finding anything on Google maps, since China not only changes all names to Chinese ones, but prevents search by any other names.

Wonder if that's true of Peking, Canton, et al? Probably not. It's only Tibet that's - fractured, and - on the way to bring wiped out completely.

................................................................................................

"The road from Purang passes Toyo village, which houses a memorial to the great Dogra General, Zorawar Singh who died here in battle. The Dogras starting from Kishtwar had conquered Ladakh and marched eastwards into Tibet. The Chinese and Tibetans withdrew and allowed them deep inside. When the winter approached, the Dogra army was trapped in these inhospitable surroundings and was attacked by the defenders.7 On December 12, 1841, gallant Zorawar Singh fell to a bullet in the war - his army was massacred with the usual Mongoloid ruthlessness. Taklakot (Purang) was abandoned. The flag of Lahore Durbar, however, continued to flutter in Leh. The Tibetans believed Zorawar to be a powerful person and in their primitive superstition began chopping his body and collecting different parts for strength. Some body parts were buried at Toyo where a monument was erected and the place of worship is locally known as ‘Singhba chorten’."

Another name that, when searched, Google maps bring forth a basket of gurdwara, parks and even a church, all in India, but nothing in Tibet.

Why don't Google maps simply respond with facts? Say,

"Search not allowed - by China - for locations in Tibet except only by official Chinese names, assigned after 1959"?

Or similar statement.

................................................................................................

"Manasarovar and Kailash area

"A long winding two-lane road now takes visitors comfortably and fast to Raksas Tal and Manasarovar with the grand view of the holy Kailash. We gave a lift to a Chinese army officer in our car. After initial hesitation I was chatting with him as he spoke fluent English and seemed rather friendly. He was a philatelic stamp collector and we decided to exchange Indian and Chinese stamps, which we did later by post. At the first view of Manasarovar and Kailash I watched him curiously. As we alighted, he did a proper namaste to Kailash and Manasarovar and kneeling down on ground like any other Tibetan performed a chham. We Indians were brought up with hatred towards the Chinese, but such gestures and our experiences clearly portrayed that all are not cruel and non-believers like western writers would like us believe. We met many friendly Chinese soldiers and except once at Saga, we were never stopped photographing anything that we wanted to."

It was never officially taught - the 'unfriendly Chinese' bit - but matter of experience, whether by Indian visitors and diplomatic corps families in China then, or Indians and Europeans visiting Chinese restaurants in US, where - after they'd responded with affirmative when asked if thry were open, we were asked us to pay before soup because 'the accountant had to leave, for some emergency', and then, after we paid, extremely rude harassing treatment would ensue, screeching at us to leave, asking if we meant them to wait on us whole night! This screeching was around 9:30p.m., within about five minutes of us having paid, within two minutes of having finished soup, and within half an hour of having been welcomed and told to stay as long as we wished, when responding to our query about their being open.

Afterwards, European contingent remarked about how Indians were friendly and Chinese hostile - not merely rude, but hostile - and this remarkable was to someone who fought for India, on every possible topic, including India's rights to nuclear power.

A photograph here of Mount Kailash, titled

"Kailash rising above Barkha Plains."!!!

This title is intriguing, but equally startling is the clearly visible seemingly staircase, at higher reaches of the pyramid shaped face of Kailash from this angle.

................................................................................................

"A lot has been written about Manasarovar and Kailash, which has a central place in Hindu philosophy and the Indian mind. The real reason could be geographical as four major rivers, which supply water to India, originate in the vicinity of this lake. The Indus flows towards the west and after entering Ladakh, takes a huge turn to flow south into the Arabian Sea across Pakistan. The Yarlung Tsangpo (or only the Tsangpo) originates at the foot of Mayum la near Manasarovar and flows across the Tibetan plateau to the east where the passage is blocked by the great massif of Namcha Barwa and Gyala Peri. Making a stupendous gorge between these two peaks it finally turns south and enters India, to the plains of Assam where it is called the Brahmaputra. Finally it merges with the Bay of Bengal."

Why does Kapadia insist on mentioning pak and avoid mentioning the separated half Bangladesh? Both are equally part of Mother India, however tourniquated off from heartland, for sake of West warring against Russia.

................................................................................................

"From the southwest of Manasarovar near Tirthapuri originates the Satluj, flowing past the old kingdom of Guge. It passes through a gorge at foot of Shipki la to enter Kinnaur and flow into the Punjab plains to merge finally with the Indus. Towards the south from the foot of Gurla Mandhata originates the Karnali river, which flowing through Nepal ultimately joins the Ganga. Thus major water sources of India, apart from the Ganges, originate north of the Himalaya and particularly from vicinity of the Manasarovar and Raksas Tal lakes. The channel between these two lakes called Ganga chu, is situated almost on the same longitude as the holy confluence of Ganga, Jamuna and the mythical Saraswati at Allahabad in India. These factors may have given a religious halo to the peak and the area. Perhaps some day a researcher would discover that early saints and Indian shastras (holy books) actually knew about the geographical significance and hence declared the area holy. There are gold mines at Thok Jalung, on the channel between the two lakes.8"

Kapadia obviously experienced nothing.

................................................................................................

"Tirthapuri, Tsaprang and Guge

"We travelled southwest from Manasarovar to Tirthapuri and as tradition has it, any Tibetan pilgrim before visiting Kailash, has to pay obeisance here. This was the extent of Hindu influence into this area as Indian gurus from the south had reached here centuries ago. The Satluj originates from the plains below Tirthapuri where the watershed divides the Indus and the Satluj river systems. There are several shapes of mountains, which curiously resemble Nanda Devi. There is a hole through which you put your hand and pick up three stones. The three white stones signify your karma to be very pure leading you to heaven and three black stones send you towards hell. Luckily everybody falls in between, picking some white and some black stones!."

Neither Tirthapuri nor really Guge, but Tsaprang leads to a spot identified only in Chinese script, with 'Guge hotel' nearby.

................................................................................................

"As we had our first coffee the Indian influence was all around us. Several pictures of Hindu Gods, film stars and cricketers adorned the walls of every restaurant, barber’s shop and shopping area . But the major statement was made by the display Dalai Lama’s picture at almost every place -- a picture that was banned by the Chinese to be taken into Tibet. Having experienced Tibet’s material development by China, which perhaps Tibetans would have never achieved by themselves for a long time, triggered many discussions on what was better, the material progress as we had seen or this symbol of Dalai Lama’s photograph which portrayed freedom and spiritual realism? It was a hard choice.11"

Hard choice?

Ask any prisoners.

Didn't many Indians opine, post independence, that British rule was better? Yet few migrated, compared to them.

................................................................................................

" ... Christianity is prevalent here and there was a large Baptist church at Ziro and many small churches built in bamboo huts. This was the earliest spread of the religion in the area and villagers who earlier followed ‘Donyi-Polo’ (the Sun and Moon Gods) religion were converted to Christianity. Though foreigners are not allowed to enter Arunachal Pradesh, local priests who are trained at Shillong, continue the worship. ... "

Who conducts training at Shillong?

................................................................................................

"Many old accounts of this region and maps mention a place called Korbo located on the left bank of the river on the foot of the ridge that forms the Top Spur. As per maps, if coming from Tibet, this should be the first village in this valley on the Indian side. We were shown a major clearing below Bishing, where the earlier village existed. Since 1963 Korbo (the Tibetan name) shifted to Bishing (970 m) which is a typical local name."

Effect of Chinese attack?

................................................................................................

"The Final Exploration: To the Tsangpo – Siang Bend

"The next day we set off on our final objective – the bend in the river. The trek involved walking across boulders strewn on the riverbank by a landslide in the past followed by an ascent to traverse a cliff. The winding Siang touched the rock cliffs at several places and all these have to be surmounted with difficulties by climbing along the cliffs, traversing in the forest above and then descending on the other side. The traverse was 1.5 km long and through thick foliage. A descent followed by a few kilometre’s walk brought us to a point on the river bank from where the bend on the Tsangpo can be clearly seen. Huge rocks offer vantage positions for photography. Steep slopes covered with impenetrable forest make the ‘Spur Tip’, the border point, inaccessible, though only a little away. The river made a ‘S’ shaped bend as it entered Indian territories. The top spur projects into the concavity of the second bend. At the opposite end of the second bend along its right bank is the mouth of Nugong Asi nala which today marks the official boundary between India and China on the river. The snow-capped Dapang peak (5570 m) in Tibet, near Shugden gompa reached by F. M. Bailey, was visible at the head of the valley. The Tsangpo entered India at 580 m. The altitude at our camp, four kilometres downstream was 568 m. This gradient is maintained all the way to Pasighat and this explains the velocity of flow. Watermarks on the rocks and cliffs show that it rises by 5 to 15 m during the summer months."

Again, when searched on Google maps, neither Dapang peak nor Shugden gompa result in locating either, but lots of gompas far away are shown; and while the specific gompa might have actually been destroyed, surely a mountain peak in Himalaya wasn't destroyed by China?

So really, Google maps ought to reply "forbidden search" or "guess he new - Chinese - name if you wish to locate the place".

................................................................................................

"Gorichen II was first climbed in 1966 by an Indian army team. Peak Kangto was climbed by the Japanese in 1988 approaching it from the Tibetan plateau in the north. Nyegi Kangsang (6983 m) was attempted in 1995 by a team from Indian Mountaineering Foundation which mistakenly claimed an ascent, proved wrong later. Today on the latest maps, Kangto (locally known as Sher Kangri, the ‘eastern mountain’) is 7042 m and stands as the highest peak in Arunachal Pradesh (and on the McMahon Line) and the only peak above 7000 m in the eastern Indian Himalaya, east of Bhutan. The Himalayan range east of the Tsangpo gorge, where it enters India, peters out into smaller mountains."

Google maps shows Kangto as Chinese property.

................................................................................................

"Nain Singh

"Though Monpas and Tibetans travelled across the passes from earliest years the first known detailed account of travel and its mountains was brought by Pundit Nain Sigh. He was working incognito for Survey of India and had travelled from Leh to Lhasa in 1874 –75. He was surveying the area and taking notes for the British. His intention was to proceed to Peking, but fearing detection he changed plans and turned south. Crossing Brahmaputra at Chetang in Tibet he crossed over to Tawang Tract via the Karkang pass and reached Tawang on 24th December 1875. Local traders wanted to monopolise trade with Tibet and generally did not allow people arriving from across the border to proceed to the Assam plains. Nain Singh was forced to stay at Tawang till 17th February 1876, but during his stay he continued the survey work around the Tawang Tract. Only after depositing all his goods in Tawang he was allowed to proceed and reached Udalguri in the British territory of Assam on 1st March 1876, completing an exploration of 1405 miles (2250 km) between Leh-Lhasa-Tawang and Assam.4

Again, no results when searching for Chetang in Tibet, or Karkang pass.

................................................................................................

" ... In 1913, in a conference at Shimla where Indians, Tibetans and Chinese participated, what is now known as the ‘McMahon Line’ was drawn on maps under Sir Henry McMahon, demarcating the boundaries between NEFA and Tibet. This line was not recognised by the Chinese though Indians and Tibetans signed it in presence of the Chinese officials. This became the bone of contention and led to conflict later."

Obviously British should not have accepted China's sovereignty over Tibet.

................................................................................................

"1962 Indo-China War

"The war between India and China in 1962 in the mountains of NEFA brought this area, specially the Tawang tract to notice of the world. As the Chinese had not recognised the McMahon Line, which divided Arunachal Pradesh and Tibet, the seeds of conflict were sown early. The Chinese declared their own claim line which ran almost near the Brahmaputra river in the Assam plains, thus claiming the entire Arunachal Pradesh as their own."

How very modest, not claiming everything ruled by mughals, since basis of Chinese claim to Tibet is treaty Tibet was forced to sign by Kublai Khan, who styled himself Mongolian Emperor of China.

................................................................................................

"When the Chinese occupied Tibet in 1959 the present Dalai Lama fled from Lhasa and entered India from Khinzemane near the Thagla ridge on the McMahon Line, reaching Shakti and Tawang. He was welcomed by Indian troops and ultimately escorted to the Indian plains and he settled in India. This created more tension between two neighbours."

Even though the then PM of India, and subsequent congress leaders, did everything possible to not help either Tibet or Dalai Lama, but kowtowed to China in every manner except publicly physically, in every matter and manner except agreeing to give up all territories demanded by China.

................................................................................................

"After 1959 the Chinese moved troops till the border. The Chinese government appealed for settlement of the border dispute in the west in Ladakh and along the McMahon Line in the east, but their main aim was to retain large parts of Aksai Chin in Ladakh, through which they had built a road. The Chinese were using the dispute in the east as a quid pro quo for the territories to be gained in the west. The situation became tense by early sixties."

There's no guarantee that such a compromise would work except temporarily, if that. Reality is very likely that China intended to occupy banks of every Himalayan river if not more.

In any case, India needed to have defended Tibet and not having conceded Chinese claims, just as infua needed to have had a good relationship with several other countries such as Formosa, Japan and Israel, to name just a few, apart from being friends with neighbourhood countries in Central Asia and South East Asia, rather than being snobs.

................................................................................................

"In response to aggressive movements of troops by the Chinese the Indian Government, against the advice of the Indian military, ordered establishment of forward posts in what was known as the ‘Forward Policy’. Many posts in both the sectors were established facing the Chinese in an eyeball confrontation. All the diplomatic efforts to bring a political solution to the border problem failed. Finally on the night of 19 and 20 October 1962, the Chinese attacked the Indian forces both in the eastern and western sectors. In a swift move they overran Indian posts. The Chinese forces suffering heavy loses came through the Thagla ridge, Bum la and Tulung la passes across the border in large numbers."

We remember army trucks arrive in the square in the New Delhi subarb, taking away trucks filled with fathers of schoolmates, who were neighbours, but hadn't been quite so visible as the daughters who had played in the large square vigorously every evening.

................................................................................................

"One contingent of the Chinese soldiers came down the Bailey trail from Tulung la, Mago, Poshing la to Thembang, thus cutting through to the rear of the Indian garrisons stationed at Dirang Dzong. This resulted in fighting and heavy loses to the Indian forces. Later after a gap of two weeks, towards mid November, the Chinese forces ran down till foothills along the Tenga river and almost reached Tezpur, causing a major panic in the city. Treasuries were evacuated, records and food stocks were burnt and many fled across the Brahmaputra. With poor political and military leadership Indian soldiers, poorly equipped and armed, paid a heavy price and many were killed or taken as prisoners and the loss of morale and prestige was high. Villagers fled from their houses. On 19th November 1962, exactly a month after the invasion began, the Chinese Government declared a unilateral ceasefire and in next few months they withdrew back across the border. They remain across the McMahon Line, which they still do not recognise. Indian army slowly moved up the valley, at first establishing posts away from the border and today all the points on the border are guarded by well-equipped and well-trained Indian soldiers.9"

It's unclear if Kapadia means McMahon Line when he says border, where India has posts.

China's withdrawal was chiefly if not entirely due to US - or, more to the point, JFK - threatened quietly; the then PM of India had, despite all the bravado of non-alignment and displeasing conservative US, had sent a quiet appeal to JFK to help, and he had promptly done the needful.

................................................................................................

"Later Years

"After the Indo-China war in 1962 the entire area remained out of bounds for mountaineers or any visitors for a long time. The first expedition to this area was in 1966 from the Indian army to peak Gorichen II (6488 m) which they climbed. Since then Gorichen II and Gorichen East (6222 m) has been attempted and climbed by several teams. Some army officers and security personnel undertook treks on several trails along the border and their articles and notes are useful for future trekkers. Now trekkers and climbers are welcome though the rules of the ‘inner line’ are to be followed and fees are charged to foreign trekkers.10

"This was area which we had selected to trek and visit. The approach to Tawang starts at Tezpur and three of us flew there on 2nd October 2003, where we met our four Kumauni porters who were waiting for us at the railway station. The day was spent to look around the historic town of Tezpur on the bank of the mighty Brahmaputra river."

Kapadia includes two beautiful photographs here, one of Tawang monastery and another of memorial to all soldiers.

Next, Kapadia gives a map of the region marking out the events and spots. The book is becoming valuable, not just for the simple and factual descriptions and beautiful though not plentiful photographs, but equally for the maps, too - especiallygiventhatGooglemapsis prevented by China in identifying searched locations.

................................................................................................

"The Story of Tezpur

"About a kilometre outside Tezpur stands a hill which overlooks the vast expanse of the Brahmaputra river. It is known an Agnigadh or the ‘Fort of Fire’, and is associated with a legend.

"Usha, was daughter of Banasur, a demon. The father was much protective and she was kept on top of this hill which was surrounded by fire, agni. The fire prevented any intrusion on the hill to protect her chastity and education. When Usha matured and came of age she dreamt of love with a handsome prince. She described her dream to her friend Chitralekha, a great artist, who drew the face of the person she had dreamt about. This was the face of Aniruddha, grandson of Lord Krishna. The artist Chitralekha, managed to get Aniruddha to this hill and Usha met him and married secretly. Her father, Banasur, came to know of this fact soon. Though Banasur was a demon, he was worshipper of Lord Shiva, and with his help he declared war with forces of Lord Krishna. Thus the two great Lords, Krishna and Shiva fought for the respective parties, in this legendary battle of ‘Hara-Hari’. During this battle so many people were killed that the blood flew down to the city and even made Brahmaputra red. Once peace was arrived at both parties decided to establish the city of Tezpur, literally ‘Tez’ i.e. blood and ‘pur’ meaning city; ‘city of blood’."

Kapadia fails to mention in which language exactly does Tez mean blood; the story bring from Mahabharata, related language should be Sanskrit, not a foreign language, so the z of Tez (which identifies the word as possibly of Persian origin) is probably incorrect and used by British wrongly, instead of original j; Tej is related to light streaming from someone like a star, and Tejpur would make it city of valour.

In fact, the name Tajapura seems more appropriate for the city being surrounded by fire to keep a beautiful young woman safe from stray males, since it'd glow and emit light, shedding light on surroundings.

................................................................................................

"Climbing up steeply, the road led us to the Sela pass (4270 m), a historic and important landmark on this route. A major fight with the invading Chinese soldiers took place here. Indian army’s loses were heavy and several memorial standing around here tell a grim story. Immediately after Sela there is a small tarn while a narrow unmetalled motorable road leads towards west, to a small but holy gompa, Banga Jang, near the Bhutan border via Chebrila lake (17 km)."

Neither Banga Jang gomoa nor Chebtila lake can be ground by search on Google maps.

................................................................................................

"The road descended towards the north to Jaswantgadh, so named after the valiant fighter Subedar Jaswant Singh of 4 Garhwal Rifles. The monument erected near the Nuranang river is a tribute to the ‘Battle of Nuranang’ between the Chinese and the Garhwal Rifles. Holding up the invading enemy for a long time, ultimately Subedar Jaswant Singh paid the supreme sacrifice and was killed by the enemy bullets. A large memorial stands here in his memory."

His is the very real story that's made of legendary material.

................................................................................................

"We visited Bum la (4501 m) by road. It is on the McMahon Line overlooking the Tibetan areas. En route we passed a tall rocky point, ‘Joginder hill’. From top of this hill, Subedar Joginder Singh held back the Chinese forces for several critical hours before he was killed. He was the only person to have been awarded Param Vir Chakra, the highest honour of the war."

Their stories should have been taught in schools.

................................................................................................

"Little ahead of Zimithang lies Hathung la (pass) and the Thagla ridge which was the scene of conflict between the Chinese and Indian forces. The dispute about this ridge and the exact alignment of the McMahon Line here started the conflict between the Chinese and the Indian forces. Nyamjang chu (river) flows from Tibet at foot of this ridge into the Tawang river to flow towards Bhutan. A small grazing ground Khinzemane on this river at foot of the Thagla ridge became a historic location. Dalai Lama, on his flight from the Chinese forces in 1959, crossed over into India from here and later because of establishment of army posts near this river that the Chinese attacked Indian forces on the night of 19- 20 October 1962. From Khinzemane, Zimithang and to Shakti village the Chinese ran over the Indian army brigade at Tawang and then proceeded south."

Kapadia thinks China needed a reason? Other than wanting to hit India hard, that is? Just to make India "shiver and tremble", as Chinese leaders told UN the world must do before China?

................................................................................................

"Thembang

" ... When the Chinese approached the village most of the population had ran away towards Nofraq in the eastern Arunachal. Entire village was evacuated and just at the outskirt, as the war records show, a major fight took place between the Chinese who had came down the Bailey trail and a company of the Indian army (4 Guards). Most of the Indian soldiers were killed and the Chinese loses were also heavy. Thembang like all other places remained under Chinese control for sometime."

................................................................................................

"Mundama

"One of the advantages of trekking in such a damp area in early winter or late autumn is the phenomena of the Mundama, which is the name in Monpa dialect for the famed ‘Brocken Spectre’. 11

"The Bailey trail traversed from north to south along the high ridges with valleys dropping steeply on two sides. Standing on the ridge we were exposed to the early morning sun. Our shadows falling on the damp mist clouds towards the west many times created a colourful rainbow with our shapes and movements reflected in the centre of it. This was the Brocken Spectre at the best, the Mundama. One was lucky (as villagers told us) to see Mundama or the Brocken Spectre, and these Arunachal valleys are blessed with this spectacular site during autumn months.

"On one of the last days of the trek, we got up early in the village of Chander. As we walked on the edges, a beautiful sunrise from the east greeted us. Our images were reflected in centre of a lovely rainbow to the west. Soon several rainbows were created one after the other and we waived our hands, which were clearly seen, making different shapes. I had seen such a phenomenon of the Spectre of the Brocken, only twice before in my life. It was on a hill near Mumbai, a week before the approaching monsoon, I stood at the edge of a fort on the Western Ghats with my son, Lt. Nawang Kapadia and as we saw our imprints in centre of the rainbow on clouds we waved out. Nawang soon joined the army as a Gorkha Officer and made the supreme sacrifice in line of duty. As I looked at myself in the Mundama at Chander I waived my hands and gave a salute to those brave soldiers of the 1962 war who had defended this area for us to enjoy today and to my son Nawang. It was a fitting ending to a great visit to these unknown valleys."

................................................................................................

"Bhutan has few roads. The main artery is from Phuntsolling on the Indian border to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. The other artery runs from Thimphu to Trashiyangtse in the far east of Bhutan. To see Bhutan in relative comfort these roads are your best bet. It allows a visitor to savour its history, people, culture and forests. From the high passes, views of Bhutan peaks are grand too.

"Woven with a rich but turbulent and complicated history, it is a most enjoyable place to travel. One can interact with very friendly people. ... "

Kapadia notes something about Bhutan that's equally true of Tibet, except the Tibetans weren't given a choice, and visitors are opining about "development" being a fair deal in exchange for freedom lost by Tibet!

"It is worth noting that even in times when monarchy is considered to be an archaic institution, the Bhutanese people love and admire their benevolent and kind King. He lives life with austerity, cares for welfare of the state and its people. Recently the King has voluntarily set the wheels of democracy in motion thus diluting his own powers. A rare thing in modern world, but it is also the reason why people here opt for absolute monarchy. Bhutan has many lessons for the modern world and this is just one of them."

Tibetans worship their ruler, Dalai Lama, despite all the hardships they have been through, despite his having neither protected nor freed them or himself, despite everything!

If that's not love, what is?

................................................................................................

"The invasion and subjugation of Tibet by the Chinese Communist Army was one of the most tragic events of modern times; not only because it resulted in the annihilation and torment of countless innocent victims, but also because mankind is in eminent danger of losing one of its ancient and most successful cultures. For, whatever its imperfections in terms of modern democracy and in spite of its material poverty, the Tibetan theocratic system seems to have produced a people as content, as tolerant, as courageously independent and as free from cramping taboos as can be found anywhere. Today, Bhutan is almost the only place where this remarkable culture still thrives on its native soil. Like Tibet itself, this small mountain kingdom has remained beyond the reach of all, but a very few western travellers. Like Tibet, true, it has in the past owed its immunity to foreign influence, largely to the policy of the Government of India to define the political integrity of neighbouring states. Unlike Tibet, it is still independent, though how long it will retain this happy position if you would dare to guess.

"Foreword by Eric Shipton.

"From the book Two and Two Halves to Bhutan

"by Peter Steele"

Steele probably didn't think India could defend Bhutan, either.

................................................................................................

" ... We were in Bhutan, called by many names: The Dragon Kingdom, the Hidden Kingdom or Shangrila.1 Till recently Bhutan had kept its doors closed to onslaught of tourism and restricted number of visitors were allowed. Television, internet and films were not freely permitted till 1998. The benevolent King had intentions of protecting the traditions, culture and environment of the Kingdom – almost like what was envisaged by Shipton in the above quote.

"At the airport ‘foreigners’ had to pay steep Visa fees and a hefty charge per day of visit.2 For Indians entry was free, no per day charges and we could use Indian currency – we are not foreigners in Bhutan except for passports. Paro (2100 m) was a beautiful town, surrounded by forest. On the first evening we visited the small bazaar which was almost time-wrapped, with wood carved windows, small houses and dominated by a huge dzong (fort). This was going to be a usual pattern during our travels in Bhutan and we visited several huge dzongs. We had planned to drive across Bhutan – from west to east and partake its culture, history and beauty."

Some things may have changed. In 2015 we were not only given free literature about Bhutan by some Bhutanese young on a flight from Calcutta, as we left at Bagdogra, but invited most lovingly to visit, just because we asked what they were looking at, and if they had extra copies! What's different since Kapadia is thst they said we didn't need passports, being Indian! So they invited us to extend our Sikkim visit and visit Bhutan as well.

................................................................................................

"Guru Zhabdrung Ngwang Namgyal was in the Ralung monastery south of Lhasa. The King did not like him and he was to be executed. Hence he ran away to Bhutan with a rare golden statue of Buddha. After few years the Tibetan discovered the loss and attacked Bhutan several times to recover it. The guru built this fort and hid the statue in it. When a large Tibetan force attacked, he reasoned that this statue is cause of all troubles, so he made a duplicate. When the Tibetans came to the dzong, he threw the replica into the river. Tibetans were shocked, called all Bhutanese mad for throwing away such a precious statue and went back, never to attack again. The original statue is still at Punakha Dzong but can be seen only by the Gyalpo (King) or Je Khenpo (chief lama) once a year."

................................................................................................

" ... Britain signed a treaty in 1910 agreeing not to interfere in the internal administration of Bhutan, which in turn agreed to be guided by an advisor from Britain in matters of defence and external relations. The Gyalpo visited Delhi for the Durbar of King George V. Sir Ugyen Wangchuk died in 1926 and was succeeded by Jigme Wangchuk. Bhutan’s doors during this time remained tightly shut for the outside world and only a few foreigners entered the country."

................................................................................................

" ... A camera bag was forgotten by one of our companions in one of the three monasteries we visited and was later not traceable. We made a big fuss and took a policeman to the monastery. The bag was returned quietly. ... "

................................................................................................

"The 1962 Indo-China war changed everything for Bhutan. It is believed that the Dalai Lama while fleeing from the Chinese in 1959, wanted to enter Bhutan from Tibet. The King refused, as he was naturally scared of the Chinese army coming into the kingdom. (The Dalai Lama has not visited Bhutan since, nor has the King, who keeps the Chinese happy, invited him!) It was a wise decision as Chinese may have taken over Bhutan for good, taking that as ruse. Dalai Lama then entered India from far eastern corner of Bhutan-Arunachal Border at Khinzemane, an area held by India but within few kilometres of the Bhutanese borders. During the war Indian troops were on the Thagla ridge, which Bhutan claimed as theirs and protested mildly. Many injured and retreating Indian soldiers came down to safety through Bhutan. The fearful King (of the Chinese) signed a comprehensive treaty with India and almost everything since then in Bhutan is linked to India. India pours in lots of money and goods, undertakes road constructions and both armies jointly patrol the borders with China. Bhutan’s defence and foreign affairs are in consultations with India.7 The King is wise and does not irritate Delhi. In 1971 when Bangladesh was created, at India's calling, Bhutan a member of the UN, was first to recognise it as a new country."

................................................................................................

Another beautiful photogph given by Kapadia, with the caption -

"Takstang Gompa or Tiger’s Nest Monastery near Paro."

This is an unusual one, in that most other photographs one has seen show the long, winding staircase up the mountain's side leading up to the gompa. This one is slightly more frontal, and again immediately brings to mind James Hilton's Lost Horizon, and its very evocative imagined Shangri-La. Does this one have a village below the cliff, or is all of Bhutan that village?

Next page has two more photographs of beautiful monasteries, captioned -

"Tongsa Dzong (above) Central Bhutan and Rangjung monastery (eastern Bhutan"

Indeed, these, more than anything else one reads, are a strong pull on heart and mind to Bhutan, next to Himalaya itself.

But then, that's the whole essence of Lost Horizon.

"The last place we visited was Kora Chorten at Trashiyangtse, a holy circle visited by Arunachalis also. It was about 10 km away from Arunachal Pradesh- the point where I had stood a year ago! It was a touching moment for me. Many passes lead across from here to India and for locals and Indians borders are open.

................................................................................................

"With this our travel in Bhutan, west to east was complete. Ideally we would have liked to drive out to India from Samdrup Jonkhar in the south, a much shorter route. But this road is closed due to terrorism and this was one of the last chapters in the history of Bhutan in 2000-2003. Many Bodo and ULFA8 militants of Assam, who were fighting India for separation, had entered lower eastern Bhutan in 1990s, established camps in thick forest and operated from there. As the Indian army did not enter Bhutan territories to flush them out this provided them a safe haven.

"Much pressure was put on Bhutan by India to fight these terrorists. The King pleaded against bloodshed, fearing the threat to himself and his people if he fought the militants. Finally the King had to agree to act and appeals were made by him to militants to give up arms. Finally as they did not respond the King personally led a Bhutanese army Brigade to attack the camps. The militants fled and as they entered Assam, the Indian army took over. ... "

Glad that ended well.

" ... The Queen Mother has built a series of chortens on Dochu la (3150 m) (near Thimphu) as thanks giving to gods for this brave action by the King. ... "

Worthy of the reason and vice-versa.

................................................................................................

" ... All that remained was to drive back the way we had come to complete our eighteen-day journey across the Dragon Kingdom. What we had witnessed and enjoyed was unparalleled natural beauty, friendly and honest people, rich culture and history with controlled tourism development. With the world changing fast Bhutan cannot be in isolation for long and we wondered what the next decade will bring for Bhutan. The King cannot keep Bhutan closed forever. Afterall, an open-air museum for future generations as well as the welfare of people is at stake.

"On the other hand Bhutan cannot allow -all carpet-baggers who wish to visit. Bhutan will have to find the golden mean to develop the state and preserve its culture and environment. As a Buddhist tenet states; ‘Peace is not absence of chaos, it is peace within chaos’.

................................................................................................

"While returning we saw a red figure sitting on a rock on the banks of river. He was Rimpoche (Precious Teacher) of a nearby monastery and was meditating. He had a very pleasant disposition, calm and serene.

"The Rimpoche was not disturbed with our presence and did not even look at us. He continued chanting and meditation, like he must have done for decades. I went near him, he opened his eyes. I had never seen a calmer face and quieter eyes. He continued prayers silently as we photographed him at close quarters and was not upset. As we left he waved us a good bye with a faint smile but continuing with his prayers. To me this was the true spirit of Bhutan. As long as such devotion continues, Bhutan will remain the major bastion of Buddhism, peace and serenity."

................................................................................................

"Kangchenjunga, is the easternmost of the 8000 m peaks. It is called ‘Five Treasures of Snow’, after its five high peaks. The highest of these five is the third highest summit in the world and the highest peak possible to be climbed from India. The peaks stand in some isolation from the main axis of the Great Himalaya.

"Kangchenjunga has always been worshipped by the people of Darjeeling and Sikkim as God. No one was allowed to climb it until recent decades. Until now every climber or climbing group that has reached the summit has stayed at least 5 ft. below the top. ... "

Somehow, that feels good, despite a wonder that this has been obeyed!

................................................................................................

" ... There are basically two major approaches to climb Kangchenjunga or reach near its base. The approach from India is via Sikkim. One can go to Gangtok, and proceed to Chumathang and Lachen. From here a little difficult trail leads to what is known as ‘Green Lake’. The Green Lake has now almost disappeared and there is only a vast camping ground on the banks of the Zemu glacier, one of the longest glaciers in eastern Himalaya. From this eastern approach one can see the huge east face of Kangchenjunga rising hundreds of feet above. In fact the face is so stupendous and rises so steeply that despite being attempted first in 1929 by a German team it was not climbed till 1977. The other approach is from Nepal and it is the eastern-most peak of the Nepal Himalaya. Rising from the Kangchenjunga glacier the peak is surrounded by many other glaciers. As Siikkim was closed to foreigners till very recently, this approach from Nepal became rather popular with trekkers, explorers and mountaineers. It was by this route that the summit was climbed for the first time.

"Before 1949, when Nepal was closed, all approaches to climb Kangchenjunga had to be made through Sikkim. As the Sikkimese worshipped the peak as a deity, no climbers were allowed in the areas near the Kangchenjunga massif, let alone climb the peak."

Where did the German team in 1929 attempt from?

................................................................................................

"When the ‘Chogyal’ (the King of Sikkim) was asked for permission to climb Kangchenjunga from the Indian side, he was told that the first summitters of the peak had stayed 5 ft. below the main summit, and thus the Gods of Sikkim were not offended. The Chogyal, little angrily replied, ‘Yes I know that. But the summitter was 6 ft. tall so actually his head was 1 ft. above my God.’ Whether it is true or not that the Gods were offended, after the first ascent, plenty of bad weather and rains devastated Sikkim. However, since then major expeditions have climbed Kangchenjunga via many different routes and it has remained one of the most beautiful and prized objective for mountaineers."

Bad weather in Himalaya regions isn't a joke.

................................................................................................

"Next to be interested in Kangchenjunga was Capt. W. S. Sherwill, a British Revenue Surveyor, who crossed the Singalila ridge from the Kulhait river to investigate the geological structure of the Kangchenjunga range. He also carried out a survey of the area west of Dzongri and Kabur. Like a scientist following an explorer he made a map of the headwaters of the Ringbi, Yunga and Yalung rivers. In 1855 one of the three Schlagaintweit brothers (German), Herrmann von Schlagaintweit was put in charge of the Magnetic Survey of India. But he failed to obtain permission to travel in Sikkim. On the advice of Dr. Campbell, who was still Superintendent of Darjeeling, he set off to follow the Singalila ridge northwards. He climbed the small peak of Tonglu and reached the high point on the ridge of Phalut. It was from here that Schlagaintweit painted panoramas of Everest and Kangchenjunga. These panoramas are today, rare pieces of art of those times available to researchers. He wanted to proceed further towards Kangchenjunga but soon his party was turned back by Nepalese soldiers."

The name Singlila must be deformed (by British, most likely) from original name 'Simhaleela', literally 'Lions' Play'.

................................................................................................

"Surveyors continued their interest in the range. From 1878 to 1881 Capt. H. J. Harman (British) began the regular survey of the Sikkim Himalaya. He also attempted to climb some of the high mountains, including Chomoyumo (6836 m) and reached Donkhya la. In 1881 he tried to reach the foot of Kangchenjunga but due to a dense forest en route he contracted an illness and died the same year. But he had sent his findings to the Survey of India and a map of his survey (1 inch = 16 miles) was published in 1882. To carry out a further survey, the Survey of India selected two Indians. The Chogyal was reluctant to let foreigners roam the area. Thus, two Pundit explorers, as they were called, were sent to the area during the period 1879-1881. They were Lama UgyenGyatso, a Tibetan teacher in Darjeeling, and Babu Sarat Chandra Das, headmaster of a school in Darjeeling. They travelled extensively from Darjeeling through the regions of Dzongri, Kang La, Yalung, Kangbachen and reached Chorten Nyima la north of the main massif and the northernmost point of Sikkim. A map of the district north of Kangchenjunga (1 inch = 16 miles) was later published."

Again, such accomplishments of Indians should have been taught in schools.

................................................................................................

"Around the same time the first views about the possibilities of climbing the peaks were expressed. Major J. W. A. Michell, an Englishman read a paper before the Alpine Club in London on Kangchenjunga and in conclusion added that he saw no reason why an expedition to the Himalaya, under the auspices of the Alpine Club, should not succeed in climbing Kangchenjunga. His was a rather naïve opinion on the possibilities of an ascent of Kangchenjunga. In his article published in the Alpine Journal he stated, “one of its northern spurs at any rate seems to present no insuperable obstacles.”"

Inquisition et al only, and strictly, applicable to heresy against institutional strictures, of course, while abusing faiths of others a routine must, the usual principle acted on by those of later three abrahmic creeds.

................................................................................................

"Rinzin Namgyal (Bhutia), another pundit, assisted W. Robert of Britain in 1883-84 in exploring the Talung valley. The following year he returned, first to explore the Yalung glacier, ascending to 5800m. He then followed Chandra Das’ route north to Jongsong La and Chorten Nyima La, returning down the Lhonak river valley and, via Lachen, to Darjeeling. He thus completed the first circuit of the Kangchenjunga massif. His map of the country ‘map of Kangchenjunga’ (1 inch = 16 miles) was subsequently published.

................................................................................................

"An expedition of nine members, led by Dr. R. C. Evans, left Darjeeling early in March and approached the Yalung glacier through Nepal. Sikkim was now closed. An attempt was made to force a route up from Kempe’s 1954 Camp 7 site by N. D. Hardie (New Zealand) and G. C. Band. This was found to be too difficult and was abandoned. A new base camp was made just below Pache’s grave.

"The route ascended the snow and ice slopes to the left (west) of the ‘ Western Buttress’, crossing ‘The Hump’ to the upper icefall and to the ‘Great Shelf’. From here it continued up by the ‘Gang-Way’, to the right (east) of Freshfield’s ‘Horseshoe’, which they now referred to as ‘The Sickle’. Camp 6 was placed at the top of the ‘Gang-Way’ at 8200 m. From this high camp, on 25 May 1955, George Band and Joe Brown climbed to the summit. They stopped short of the summit as per the promise given to the Maharajah of Sikkim that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. The following day, 26 May, Norman Hardie and H. R. A. Streather repeated the climb. Oxygen was used both times. The only sour note to this great achievement was that Sherpa Pema Dorje, exhausted after his carry to Camp 5, died at Base Camp a few days later."

Had it been them instead of him, would they then take the strictures seriously, as they did post deaths in Egypt and later misfortunes of those that opened the pyramids and disturbed mummies?

................................................................................................

"The Ascent from the East

"Kangchenjunga peak was left alone for many years thereafter as after its first ascent climbers gave attention to other unclimbed high peaks. It was in 1977 that Paul Bauer’s route from the NE Spur was climbed by an Indian Army expedition led by Col. N. Kumar. Sikkim had now become an Indian State and the authority of Chogyal had diminished. Thus permission was obtained to attempt Kangchenjunga from the east, the Sikkimese side. The team established Base Camp at Green Lake on the Zemu glacier with much equipment. On the lower section of the route Havaldar S. Singh was killed in a fall while descending fixed ropes below Camp 2."

Perhaps if they paid attention to beliefs held by locals who have been here for millennia, rather than ape disdain by west against anything not abrahmic, they might not risk deaths, but perhaps it's been only lower level employees of the prestigious climbers, not much of the bosses who would have mattered?

................................................................................................

"Kangchenjunga is a beautiful high mountain and the presiding deity of the Sikkimese people. It stands beautifully above North Sikkim and towers over hills of Darjeeling and surrounding areas. Now after being explored and climbed it still retains its awe, majesty and beauty. It always will. With Sikkim opening its doors for visitors, Kangchenjunga and its surrounding areas are most attractive for everyone to visit.

................................................................................................

"Kangchenjunga is the third highest peak in the world. It rises almost 12000 ft (3700 m) from Zemu glacier to its 28,165 ft (8585 m) summit. The Zemu glacier extends almost up to the eastern base of Kangchenjunga from where, in a stupendous steep wall, the summit rises. The massif is almost north to south in orientation, thus the east wall faces the sun directly, from early morning. The sun, rising from Bhutan in the east, disappears by about 3.00 p.m. behind the summit of the Kangchenjunga. The long shadow of Kangchenjunga descends on the Zemu glacier and it darkens as the time passes. Campers at Green Lake on the Zemu glacier would be in virtual darkness by this hour. As the sun sets on the western horizon behind the peak, unseen from the Zemu glacier, the fading glow towards the east is the only indication that dusk is approaching. Thus one almost feels what Doug Freshfield described as the eastern sunset.

""We spent on the whole an enjoyable evening, and witnessed a sublime sunset and afterglow. The sunsets in the high Himalaya, though less vivid than those I saw afterwards in the Bay of Bengal, were often singularly beautiful. The colours were tender and exquisitely graduated; pools of green and gold sky were ringed round with ruddier tints of the melting vapours. We noticed more than once a peculiarity, referred to elsewhere in India by Sir J. Hooker, the false sunset in the East, where a glow, as strong as that when sunset and sunrise fade into one another on the northern horizon in the Highlands in June, would shoe above the mountain tops, while zodiacal rays, or appearance resembling them – thin bars of light - shot across the zenith, uniting what appeared as separate sources of illumination.

"(Doug Freshfield, Round Kangchenjunga, p 129, Edward Arnold, London 1903)"

................................................................................................

"The sunset, its golden rays lighting up the Kangchenjunga peak is a sight that many visitors in Darjeeling await fervently. It is a rare event as clouds generally cover the peak around evening and one would have to be blessed to watch a beautiful sunset. The crowded streets of Darjeeling today look modern in appearance, but the Chaurasta, the historic square in the centre of town has retained its charm. Tourists throng the square; legendary Sherpas have sat on the benches around here playing cards, chatting or just eating an ice cream.

"Ghoom at 2258 m is the highest point on the way to Darjeeling from the plains. Its pristine surroundings and a famous monastery had attracted the bard Rabindranath Tagore to spend a few months here and write some of his well-known poems. Today the Ghoom monastery is an attraction for tourists where the lamas blow their long conches and give a taste of what Sikkim was like many years ago. Like poets, Kangchenjunga has inspired artists for several generations. For example, Mumbai’s galleries have some excellent paintings of Kangchenjunga rising over Chortens in Sikkim,all by a leading artist, M.K. Kelkar."

................................................................................................

"The foothills of Kangchenjunga produce tea of excellent quality. Darjeeling tea is on the menu of almost all restaurants in India and abroad. The best quality Darjeeling tea is yearly auctioned at about Rs. 17,000 (US $ 400) per kg and is purchased by the Royal families of England and Japan. Never refuse, if you are ever invited for tea with the royal families!

"Darjeeling gained importance not because of Kangchenjunga, but with the attraction for Everest. Nepal had closed its borders thus outsiders could not explore or attempt the highest peak in the world. As a result, an approach route from the north was developed. Starting from Darjeeling where all bandobast was made, the party would trek over high passes to the Tibetan plateau to reach Rongbuk, north of Everest, to attempt the mountain. Darjeeling gained importance as a bazaar for arranging supplies and employing Sherpas and porters."

................................................................................................

"Himalayan Mountaineering Institute

"This mountaineering tradition continued with establishment of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI on Birch Hill, at one end of Darjeeling. Since 1956, it has trained several young students to keep up its motto ‘May you climb from peak to peak’. Its corridors are well decorated and bustling with activity. In its premises stands a telescope with a caption that reads;

""This is a powerful Veb Carl Zeiss Jena telescope capable of astronomical observations. One can view the beautiful Kangchenjunga range through this telescope. It was presented by Adolf HITLER to Maharaja Judh Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana, Commander-in-Chief of the Royal Nepal Army. It was passed down to his son General Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana who presented it to Himalayan Mountaineering Institute on 7 July 1961."

"The force behind this institute was Sherpa Tenzing Norgay who made the first ascent of Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953. As the nation celebrated, Jawaharlal Nehru1, the then Prime Minister of India, asked Tenzing to establish a training institute for budding young mountaineers ‘to produce a hundred Tenzings’. Tenzing was the soul behind this institute and served as its director and advisor . When he died in 1986, he was cremated above his beloved institute and a bronze statue stands in his memory today looking towards Kangchenjunga."

................................................................................................

"Since its inception HMI has played a historical role, and several legendary Sherpas were its first instructors. Da Namgyal was instrumental in opening the route towards the summit of Everest in the 1953 expedition. This gentle Sherpa while rock climbing near Mumbai fell and injured his head and was in coma for many days. Though he recovered he was never his true self again and finally this injury claimed his life decades later. Micken Gyalzen, the first chief instructor of this institute, had climbed Manaslu and many other peaks. Ang Temba was also a legendary ‘Tiger’ on the 1953 Everest expedition. He was the shortest Sherpa on the expedition and, as the legend has it, he married the tallest Sherpani on that trip! But the person who was perhaps far ahead of his time was Sherpa Wangdi. Around 1970s he established a ‘Sherpa Guide School’ on the outskirts of Manali in the western Himalaya, with a band of trusted Sherpas from Darjeeling. These Sherpas would accompany expedition parties as guides and Wangdi would organize expeditions with his equipment and knowledge. But local babus did not appreciate this intrusion by an outside expert and Wangdi faced many difficulties. Unfortunately there was an accident on one of the expeditions organised by him and this gave enough leverage to officials to harass him forcing him to close business. In later years he suffered from tuberculosis and as I walked with him from his quarters to the hospital, just two kilometres from Manali, it was painful to see him coughing and having to rest at almost every 100 m. HMI also had on its staff Ang Kami, the prince among Sherpas. Colourful, jolly and he would burst in a dance at the slightest provocation. Ang Kami had carried luggage to the South Col of Everest several times and finally reached the summit in 1965, then one of the youngest persons to have climbed Everest. He joined a Mumbai based expedition to Bethartoli Himal in 1970. While the team camped at foot of the main peak an avalanche trapped the party. Four climbers, including Ang Kami, were killed. His body was never recovered. The streets of Darjeeling were sad at the loss of this charming son especially as Ang Kami had left behind a 90-year-old mother.

"The first Principal of HMI was Nandu Jayal, one of the best mountaineers India had produced at that time. Once, finishing his duties with the students at HMI, he rushed through plains of Nepal to catch up with the Indian team, which was climbing Cho Oyu. Thinking that he was well acclimatised due to his stay in Darjeeling and conducting the course, he climbed, gaining height rapidly. . Not much was known about high altitude pulmonary oedema during those times and he was struck by the illness at night. Before he could either recover or descend quickly, he died on the mountain. India lost one of its brilliant mountaineers.

................................................................................................

"The Gorkha Soldiers and the Younghusband Mission

"Near the railway line at the Batasia garden stands an impressive memorial with a statue of a Gorkha soldier with Kangchenjunga as the backdrop. Darjeeling and its foothills were always recruiting grounds for brave Gorkhas of British and Indian armies. Traditionally, young boys from eastern Nepal would run away from their families to Darjeeling to join the British Army. They were trained in weaponry and use of the traditional weapon, the khukris. Their motto was Kayar Hunu Bhanda, Marnu Ramro - It is better to die in valour than be a coward. After Indian independence, four Gorkha regiments went to the British and the other six serve in the Indian Army. Gorkhas have won several honours including Victoria Crosses. Rifleman Kulbir Thapa of the 3rd Queen Alexandra’s Own Gurkha Rifle was one of the earliest winners of Victoria Cross on 25th September 1915. With his khukri drawn, he cut through enemy lines in France with the fearsome shout Ayo Gorkha Re (Here comes Gorkha).

................................................................................................

"In the early part of the 20th century a major military expedition left the foothills of Kangchenjunga. Lord Curzon, the Viceroy of India had inclination that the Russians may have their eyes on Lhasa and Tibet. He persuaded the British Government for permission to send a military expedition in 1903/04 under Sir Francis Younghusband. It came to be known as the Younghusband Mission. The army marched from Siliguri to Darjeeling and crossed from Nathu la into Tibet. Guns were mounted on ekkas pulled by yaks, the first ever wheels seen by the Tibetans. The British marched to Gyantse, a fort on a hill rising on the Tibetan plateau. At first, on the arrival of the British, Tibetans ran away but when General McDonald proceeded ahead towards Karo la and Lhasa, they returned and reoccupied the fort. Efforts to dislodge them proved futile. The British asked for reinforcement by way of soldiers from the 8 Gorkha Rifles. Lt J D Grant and Havildar Karbir Pun climbed a steep wall to enter the Gyantse fort. As several other Gorkhas followed them wielding their kukris, the local army was in disarray, many jumped to their deaths. For this ‘bravery’, Lt. Grant received Victoria Cross and Pun received First Class Order of Merit. The British marched into Lhasa through a huge chorten and this was the first opening up of Tibet."

................................................................................................

"Sherpas and the Tiger Badge

"Another ethnic group, the pride of Darjeeling, are the Sherpas. Hailing from the Khumbu district of Nepal, many families trekked across to Darjeeling to seek employment with Everest expeditions. This migration continued for several years till Nepal opened its doors for mountaineers. Many of these families produced legendary Sherpas (some of whom I have mentioned earlier. One of the well-known names was Ang Tsering who passed away recently at the age of 96. He served on several expeditions like Everest in 1924 with Irvine and Mallory and climbed high on Nanga Parbat with a German team when a tragedy claimed lives of leader Merkl and Gaylay Sherpa. During a horrific storm, Ang Tsering descended the fearsome killer mountain with sheer strength, suffering frostbites, to alert members at the base for a rescue, which could not be mounted. ‘With almost a superhuman endurance he had fought his way down through storm and snow, a hero at every step’, wrote member Bechtold in tribute.

"For this bravery on Nanga Parbat by Sherpas three certificates on behalf of Adolf Hitler arrived in Darjeeling. Not being able to read either German or English they decided to distribute one each, irrespective of to whom it belonged. As a result, Ang Tsering’s family has a certificate of ‘Herrn Kidar’. Many Sherpas have sacrificed their lives in the service of mountaineering. Without these brave souls, the story of climbing would have been very different.

................................................................................................

"To honour such bravery, the Himalayan Club instituted a ‘Tiger’s Badge’. This is a bronze badge with the mark of tiger in the centre. It was awarded to a Sherpa who had performed bravely, particularly on Everest. Each Tiger Sherpa was given a small notebook with his photograph and family details. Whichever expedition he joined, the leader of that team would write remarks about his performance and recommendations. Some of these books today are of great historical value as they have signatures of Norton, Bauer, Dyhrenfurth, Ruttledge, Merkl and other legendary climbers.

"The house of any Sherpa is a museum of mountaineering history, containing several memorabilia, certificates and items presented by various mountaineers. But if you are visiting a Sherpa friend be careful before praising a piece, for no sooner you uttered the word, this warm and friendly friend may be packing this item to present to you!. Such is the hospitality and generosity of Sherpas.

................................................................................................

"Of several Sherpas living in Darjeeling today, one can name just a few. The most educated, articulate and proficient climber is Dorjee Lhatoo who served at HMI for many years. He could be rightly called a ‘mountaineering historian of Darjeeling’. If you walk with him in the streets of Darjeeling there is no end to stories, legends and history that he could narrate. Himself a leading mountaineer of India, having climbed Nanda Devi, Chomolahri, Everest and many other challenging peaks, he has also trained many climbers. Near him lives Nawang Gombu, who today acts as the elder statesman of the Sherpa community. He was the first person to have climbed Everest twice, in 1963 with Americans and in 1965 with Indians. Solidly built, he is often seen walking in the streets of Darjeeling and greeted respectfully by many. Children of Sherpas have not generally entered the field of mountaineering and climbing, but nevertheless they have been successful in life in varied fields such as a television commentator, a journalist, the owner of a successful adventure company, Superintendent of Police and a well-known surgeon and doctor. People who grew up in the shadow of Kangchenjunga have certainly gone places. In the HMI quarters, lives Kusang Sherpa, who today is the strongest Sherpa of them all. He has climbed Everest by four different routes, including the Kangshung Face. This strong but gentle Sherpa is one of the instructors.

"But unfortunately sometimes the Indian bureaucracy has not looked after these Sherpas well. Once, walking with Lhatoo on the streets of Darjeeling decades ago, I was shocked to see legendary Da Namgyal and Gyalzen selling sweaters on the street to make a living after retiring from a long service at HMI. Due to Government regulations they were treated as lower class employees and no pension was offered to them. When they approached one of the senior bureaucrats they were brushed aside, citing Government rules. Their needs was small, but even this respect was denied to them. Their foreign friends of yesteryears offered to help but they refused such charity with dignity and instead decided to publish their plight in the papers so that the future lot of Sherpas would benefit. We took a picture of Dorjee Lhatoo, who was then a serving instructor, standing between them and this picture was published with a caption: ‘The present and future sweater-sellers of Darjeeling’. It made an impact and the bureaucracy, shocked and pressurised, changed rules to offer a well-deserved pension to all instructors since.

"In 2000, at the change of the millennium, only 3 ‘Tiger Sherpas’ were alive. Ang Tsering, Nawang Gombu and Topgay. The Himalayan Club organized a special function in Darjeeling to honour them. ... Later, these three ‘Tigers’ were invited to Mumbai and were honoured before a large gathering of mountaineers."

................................................................................................

"Sikkim : a history

"Darjeeling has a long history, also portrayed in several paintings by different artists. T. Howard Somervell who lived here made a colour sketch of sunrise over Kangchenjunga. Sir Joseph Hooker’s Himalayan Journals featured black and white sketches of old Darjeeling drawn in 1854 with the peak. It was Joseph Dalton Hooker, a naturalist, who was responsible for steering up the first round of political history of this area. He was friend of Lord Dalhousie and they had travelled together to India by sea when Dalhousie took over as the Governor General. During his years of travel, Hooker came to Darjeeling, which was then part of Sikkim and teamed up with Arthur Campbell, the then District Magistrate of the area. The British had negotiated with Sikkim to establish a sanatorium in Darjeeling and this was their first foothold. Hooker and Campbell proceeded to enter Sikkim despite being denied permission by the Chogyal. In December 1849 as they entered Sikkim, they were arrested and, by some accounts, treated badly. This was done at the behest of the Pagla Diwan or the Mad Prime Minister of Sikkim. Taking offence at the arrest of a close friend of the Governor General, in January 1950, the British army crossed over into Sikkim and camped on the Singalila ridge. As retribution Sikkim had to concede the areas of Darjeeling and Kalimpong to join the provinces of Bengal which later were passed on to India. The British India was thus firmly established in the foothills of Kangchenjunga and the British gentry enjoyed the walks on the malls.

"The streets of Gangtok and Kalimpong were full of festivities when Dalai Lama and Panchan Lama visited Sikkim. But the flight of Dalai Lama to India in 1959 infuriated the Chinese. One focus of their anger was Sikkim with which they had always coveted. During the 1962 Indo-China war, much firing took place on the high passes of Nathu la and Se la. Historically China always recognised Sikkim as an independent country and even after it joined India as a state, China refused to change its stand. In 1967-68, situation on the passes with China was grim and at certain points, Indian and Chinese armies were constantly in skirmishes. Luckily a war was averted. During 2001, the Indian Prime Minister visited Peking and the Chinese negotiated a road from Kolkata to Lhasa via Sikkim, Nathu la and Chumbi valley, which was a prime need for China as it would give them an access to the port of Kolkata and bring Lhasa much closer for supplies. As a quid pro quo China agreed to recognise Sikkim as part of India. After some time when nothing was heard from the Chinese authorities, the Indian Government inquired about their promise. Pat came the reply, ‘Please look up the official website of the Chinese Government. We have done the needful’. On the website map, below the word ‘Sikkim’ , they had added a word in red, ‘India’. Only by such subtle diplomacy did China concede that Sikkim was indeed part of India."

................................................................................................

"Sikkim Joins India

"Nari Rustomji was a Parsi bureaucrat from Mumbai. He was posted to several areas in the northeast and later was appointed as Dewan, the Prime Minister of Sikkim. He had an abiding friendship with Sir Tashi Namgyal, the then Chogyal of Sikkim as well as the earlier Chogyal, known as the Prince. He was a trusted confidante and advisor during the troubled period of the state. At Durbars (courts) Nari Rustomji was always a Guest of Honour. With him was Appa Saheb Pant who was from Aundh, a princely state in Central India.2 ... "

Aundh is in Maharashtra, which wasn't a state until 1960, when Bombay province was divided; before independence, Aundh would have been princely estate, part of Maratha Empire. Central India here is meant to connote a geographic term, not to be confused with a British India province C.P., subsequently named Madhya Pradesh, Sanskrit name that means Central Province.

" ... These two Indian gentlemen acted as representatives of the Government of India and guided the Chogyal and thus the destiny of Sikkim."

................................................................................................

"But soon the destiny of Sikkim was in the hands of three women. The Chogyal, while walking on the streets of Darjeeling, developed a romantic association with Hope Cook, a shy American girl. The romance flourished under the shadows of Kangchenjunga and the Chogyal persuaded orthodox Lamas to grant him permission to marry an American. Hope Cook had political ambitions and she guided Chogyal to be independent of Indian influence and lead Sikkim to a different path than where it was headed. Later the Chogyal visited Kathmandu for a regional conference against the advise of the Indian Government and what irritated the Indians most was the fact that he spent few hours with Chinese Vice Premier behind locked doors. Mrs. Indira Gandhi, who was then the Prime Minister, did not look kindly upon this. Sikkim had a large Nepali population and they were always at crossroads with the minority Lepchas to which the Chogyal belonged. In such a scenario, the third lady entered, Elisa Maria, a Belgian who had lived in Delhi, cultivating several political contacts. She counted Chou En Lai and Kamal Ata’ark amongst her friends. She had married Kazi Lhendup Dorji in Sikkim and came to be known as Chakung Kazini. She and Kazi Lhendup became instrumental in organizing protests against the Chogyal and the institute of monarchy. Some processions turned violent and were fired on, which gave enough reasons for the Indian army to put Chogyal under house arrest and disarm palace guards. Elections were held and the Sikkim Pradesh Congress under Kazi took power. One of the first resolutions they passed was to join India as one of the states. This was ‘accepted’ by Mrs. Gandhi’s Government and on 23 April 1975 Sikkim joined the Indian Union. Chogyal had two sons Prince Wangchuk and Crown Prince Tenzing who was interested in politics. While driving to Gangtok he died in a car accident and the other brother renounced Sikkim to live peacefully abroad."

Kapadia does not mention what happened to Hope Cook, but there's a vague memory that she left for back home.

................................................................................................

Quoted from Wikipedia -

"Hope Cooke (born June 24, 1940) is an American who was the "Gyalmo" (Tibetan: རྒྱལ་མོ་, Wylie: rgyal mo) (Queen Consort) of the 12th Chogyal (King) of Sikkim, Palden Thondup Namgyal.[1] Their wedding took place in March 1963. She was termed Her Highness The Crown Princess of Sikkim and became the Gyalmo of Sikkim at Palden Thondup Namgyal's coronation in 1965.

"Palden Thondup Namgyal eventually was the last king of Sikkim as a protectorate state under India. By 1973, both the country and their marriage were crumbling; soon Sikkim was merged into India. Five months after the takeover of Sikkim had begun, Cooke returned to the United States with her two children and stepdaughter to enroll them in schools in New York City. Cooke and her husband divorced in 1980; Namgyal died of cancer in 1982.[3]

"Cooke wrote an autobiography, Time Change (Simon & Schuster 1981) and began a career as a lecturer, book critic, and magazine contributor, later becoming an urban historian. In her new life as a student of New York City, Cooke published Seeing New York (Temple University Press 1995); worked as a newspaper columnist (Daily News); and taught at Yale University, Sarah Lawrence College, and Birch Wathen, a New York City private school.[4"

................................................................................................

"After the first joys in victory came a feeling of sadness that the mountain had succumbed, that the proud head of the goddess was bowed. With these simple words of veneration, H.W. Tilman and Noel Odell completed the saga of finding a route to the summit of this charismatic mountain. They were standing then on the highest point in the British Empire, ‘where the sun never sets’ (The independent Kingdom of Nepal and Kashmir contained all the other high peaks known then, including Everest and K2). It was not without reason that Nanda Devi was held in such awe, for since in 1883, it had humbled at least eight attempts to reach its base.

................................................................................................

"The twin peaks of Nanda Devi (7816 m) and Nanda East (7434 m) stand majestically in the centre of a ring of peaks. Looked at from any angle, the Nanda Devi peaks stand out distinct and beautiful, particularly as the first and last rays of sunshine always caress their summits. Hugh Ruttledge who had made an attempt to reach the foot of the peaks described the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in a letter to the London Times in 1932 as: A seventy-mile barrier ring on which stand twelve measured peaks of over 21,000 ft which has no depression lower than 17,000 ft except in the west where the Rishi Ganga rising at the foot of Nanda Devi draining the area of some 250 square miles (800 square kilometres) of snow and ice has earned for itself what must be one of the most terrific gorges in the world. The Sanctuary of Nanda Devi is remarkable for its unique wild grandeur. Even more remarkable is the veneration that this peak holds in Hinduism, the folklore behind it and the tributes it has received from some of the finest pens in mountaineering literature. The Sanctuary and the high peaks of Nanda Devi are the major barriers between the cold Tibetan winds and the Gangetic plains of India. Without the Sanctuary to absorb the main thrust of the icy winds, Tibetan winds would have stripped the Gangetic plains, the granary of India, barren. No wonder the peaks are worshipped as a Goddess with some impressive folklore built around them. The name, Nanda Devi itself means; ‘the Bliss Giving Goddess’."

Normally, it's just The Times, and any qualifying epithets are for 'other' variations such as India, New York, Los Angeles, etc..

................................................................................................

"The humility and veneration of the first climbers was perhaps missing with later visitors to the Sanctuary. The inner sanctums were opened for unrestricted flow of visitors in 1974. Within 8 years there was so much pollution, cutting of trees and damage that the Sanctuary had to be totally closed now till 2002. (During these years five expeditions visited the Sanctuary, two of them from the defence forces, which climbed the main peak1). It was therefore imperative that the effect of this closure should be observed, especially as the new state of Uttaranchal was interested in knowing the state of the Sanctuary."

"The Indian Mountaineering Foundation decided to send a multi-disciplinary expedition to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in May-June 2001. Finally, our expedition consisted of 3 trekkers and mountaineers and 4 scientists to trek into the inner Sanctuary. We were asked to study specifically the following points:

"• Whether any further destruction have taken place since closure of the Sanctuary

"•Whether the total closure has been beneficial to the growth of natural resources

"• Whether the closure has been total or there have been several encroachments or

"• Whether the Sanctuary’s fragile environment is now strong enough to allow some trekking and climbing activity.

"Based on the report of our team, a ‘Management Plan’ could be formulated by the IMF and the Uttaranchal Government.

................................................................................................

"The day we reached Joshimath, one of the screws in my specs was loose and I could not find any optical shop to fix it. Finally I located a small shop selling watches with a friendly looking owner at the desk chewing paan (beetle-nut). I showed him the problem. Listening to a radio, he looked around for a tool and repaired it in no time. I offered to pay for the services. He simply extended his hand and murmured. ‘just shake hands’. I was back in the friendly land of Garhwal!"

................................................................................................

"Civilization owes a lot to caravans of mules that carried goods and knowledge across high ranges. One of the most important routes was through the east Karakoram mountains crossing high passes of Saser la and Karakoram pass. The barrenness here is seen to be believed. The faithful pilgrims from Central Asia to Mecca opened the route, traders followed it and politics and war closed it for all practical purposes. ... "

The trade route existed and flourished long before there was reason for the pilgrims in that direction, unless Kapadia is speaking of the huge temple of which the present place of pilgrimage is a remnant after extensive destruction of huge statues that existed until then; in any case, there were once Buddhist monasteries along the route where traders found succour, and the very name Bukhara stems from (Buddha) Vihara, as those monasteries were called. Which in turn means the trade route existed across Central Asia long before Buddha himself.

................................................................................................

" ... Today the trade route reminds one of the romantic tales of caravans, dangerous fording of rivers and toils of people. In all this, mules played a central role and without their sacrifice not much would have been achieved. ... "

Sacrifice is hardly an appropriate word for humans using animals for transport, since neither humans sacrificing them nor mules willingly or consciously giving or consecrating their life was involved; it has been as much a partnership as that of horse and man in various cultures, from Mongolia to India to Europe to California, the only one outdoing that being the multiple area encompassing partnership between humanity and cattle in India, involvingnot only transportation and trade but agriculture and dairy, vital to life.

In fact, there must be a good reason why mules are used as the epithet for unreasonable and stubborn humans. As for the trade route in Central Asia, camels were involved through most of it, although perhaps not in the Himalayan regions.

................................................................................................

" ... As I stood at the Karakoram Pass for second time, looking across to same barren Central Asian plains I wondered when these frontiers will be opened to caravans. That will truly be a tribute to civilised society."

It's one thing Kapadia opining that some Chinese individuals aren't all that bad; it's quite another ignoring the general trend of hostile dealing China - and Chinese individuals too, including those managing restaurants (not in India) have with, not only India, but the world, in true Chingis Khan tradition.

Return of a friendly civilisation opening trade routes and travel in Central Asia across Himalaya would involve a major change, reversing completely the Abrahmic-IV creed that sought to destroy China's adopted Buddhist and indigenous other creeds and culture of several millennia.

................................................................................................

""Arghan, a hybrid class, resulting from the intra marriage of foreign Asiatics with Ladakhi women; they are largely employed as mule and pony drivers on the various routes leading to and from Leh. (many fold). 1"

" ... The costly and rare Pashmina wool was initially traded on behalf of the rulers of Ladakh, the Gyalpos. The Gyalpos appointed agents, known as ‘Kha-tsong’, who were all Arghons. By ancient customs the privileged traders arrived from Gartok and Rudok to buy wool and interacted with the Arghons, who exclusively controlled the wool trade of Changthang in Ladakh under the ‘Treaty of Tingmosgang’.4 All this was to change only after Ladakh was conquered by the forces of a Dogra General, Zorawar Singh (representing Maharaja Gulab Singh). But before that, this rich community was well established and part of Ladakh’s social scene.

"The Arghon community of Leh pride themselves even now on their descent from foreign merchants who settled there during the great days of caravan trade. They came from Srinagar, and from the great trading cities of Central Asia – Yarkand, Khotan and Kashgar. ..."

Kapadia gives a map of the Greater Karakoram region.

................................................................................................

"The Arghons also played a leading role in the trans-Himalayan trade between Leh and Kashgar across the Karakoram Pass. The trade was carried on for years and all the goods were ferried across high and dangerous passes on mules. To help the caravans a community of Kiraiyakash was demarcated. (They were called thus from the Urdu word ‘Kirai’; meaning fee, fare, hire.) This community have been a feature of the trade caravans ever since trade was carried on across the Karakoram. They moulded well as pony-men, professional porters and reliable helpers all over Asia. They were both Ladakhis and Yarkandis and many of them were the Arghons of Leh in later decades. These Kiraiyakash were hardy men, almost immune to hardship of travel on the mountain trails and during severe winters of Ladakh and Central Asia.

"Between 1870 and 1930, they served many exploratory and scientific expeditions, like that of Sir Francis Younghusband and Dr. Tom Longstaff. There are rich tributes to the Arghons in the published accounts of their travels. ... "

................................................................................................

"Dr. Tom Longstaff, the intrepid explorer, pays tribute to one of the most well known Arghons of his times:

"Rasool Gulwan, our caravan leader was a great character. He had travelled through Tibet with Llittledale, and with Robert Barrett, Phelps and Church and was rated very high by all of them. He was of the breed called Arghan, of a Yarkandi father by a Ladakhi mother. Inheriting the best characteristics of both the races, he was absolutely honest; he never took bribes nor offered them. 6

"Gulam Rasool Galwan was among the pony-men taken on by Lord Dunmore to Pamirs in 1890. This was a four- month expedition for which he was paid Rs. 10 per month. He served a host of other explorers and travellers; Younghusband, Longstaff, Phelps, Church, Wellby and Littledale. In 1914 he was appointed as the caravan leader (a very prestigious post) of the big Italian scientific expedition of Filippo de Filippi, which explored the Rimo glacier systems and spent several months in the area.

"His claim to fame came from an earlier expedition with the British Joint Commissioner in 1899. He was part of the team, which reconnoitred possible routes through the Changchenmo valley going east from the Shyok river. With the Sahibs, he explored a large unknown river valley little to its north and this valley now bears his name, ‘the Galwan valley’. This is a rare instance of a major geographical feature being given the name of a native explorer who put it on a western map --- a true tribute to the Arghons.7 In 1962, the Chinese troops surrounded the Indian army posts in this very Galwan valley and the first shots were fired here to start the Indo-China war. ... "

Chinese military forces, no doubt as per government orders, designs and plans, attempted a repetition in 2020, and, as in 1967 when China had tried a repetition of 1962, were forced to retreat after losing far more men than they'd expected, despite being prepared in 2020 for a brutal fight, armed with barbed iron rods!

................................................................................................

Quoted from Wikipedia:-

"There is no evidence of Qing China making any claims on the Aksai Chin plateau.[17] The Republic of China (1912–1949), having faced a revolution in Tibet in 1911, apparently made secret plans to acquire Aksai Chin plateau in order to create a road link between Xinjiang and Tibet. These plans began to get manifested in public maps only towards the end of its rule.[18] While the Republican Chinese claims included the Aksai Chin proper, they stopped at the foot of the Karakoram mountains, leaving all the rivers that flow into the Shyok River within India. (See map.) Communist China also published the "Big Map of the People's Republic of China" in 1956 with a similar boundary, now called the 1956 claim line. In the Galwan Valley, this line just skirted the Samzungling campsite, leaving the rest of the valley within India.[19][20]

"However, in 1960 China advanced its claim line to the western end of the Galwan river, running along the crest of the mountain ridge adjoining the Shyok river valley.[20] The Chinese said little by way of justification for this advancement other than to claim that it was their "traditional customary boundary" which was allegedly formed through a "long historical process". They claimed that the line was altered in the recent past only due to "British imperialism".[f][21][22][23]

Meanwhile, India continued to claim the entire Aksai Chin plateau."

"The Indian Intelligence Bureau proposed in September 1961 that the Galwan Valley should be patrolled and posts established up in the valley because it was strategically connected to the Shyok Valley.[25] Nehru supported the proposal and the CGS[g] B. M. Kaul ordered the setting up of a forward post. However, the terrain of the valley proved too difficult for the troops to proceed up the valley.[26] In April 1962, Kaul ordered that a southern route should be tried. By this time, the Chinese had announced that they were resuming patrols and it was also learnt that they had established a post at Samzungling. The Western Command's objections that the establishment of an Indian post would be a provocative act were overruled by the high command.[27]

"A platoon of Indian Gorkha troops set out from Hot Springs in the Chang Chenmo Valley, and, by 5 July, arrived at the upper reaches of the Galwan Valley.[h] They established a post on a ridge overlooking the valley from the south, on the bank of a tributary that China calls "Shimengou".[i][30] The post ended up cutting the lines of communication to a Chinese post downstream along the Galwan River, called 'Day 9'.[31] The Chinese interpreted it as a premeditated attack on their post, and surrounded the Indian post, coming within 100 yards of it.[j] The Indian government warned China of "grave consequences" and informed them that India was determined to hold the post at all costs. The post remained surrounded for four months and was supplied by helicopters.[33][34] The Central Intelligence Agency opined that the presence of the post temporarily blocked any further movement of the Chinese troops down the Galwan Valley.[35]"

" ... sporadic firing incidents occurred throughout the western front. At Galwan Valley itself, fire was exchanged on 2 September.[38] As a result of the standoff, the Chinese were compelled to withdraw some of the posts in the Galwan Valley because they could not be supplied. Indian leaders saw this as a sign of success for their forward policy.[39]"

"1962 war

"By the time the Sino-Indian War started on 20 October 1962, the Indian post had been reinforced by a company of troops. The Chinese PLA bombarded it with heavy shelling and employed a battalion to attack it. The garrison suffered 33 killed and several wounded, while the company commander and several others were taken prisoner.[33][34] By the end of the war, China is said to have reached its 1960 claim line.[20] There is however no evidence that the Chinese troops trekked through the Galwan Valley to reach their claim line.[k] The elimination of the sole Indian post in the Galwan Valley (near the tributary called Shimengou) implied that they had control up to their claim line. The Indian post at the confluence of Galwan with the Shyok River was intact throughout the war and the Chinese never made any contact with it.[40]

"The Chinese later claimed, implicitly, via a map annexed to a 1962 letter from Premier Zhou En-lai to heads of certain Afro-Asian nations, that they had reached the confluence of Galwan with the Shyok River.[l] However, the Afro-Asian nations, in their Colombo proposals for truce between China and India, drew the line very close to China's 1960 claim line. The Chinese still persist with the line on their maps, calling it the "Line of Actual Control of 1959".[m]"

"Infrastructure

"Prior to the 1962 war, China had already constructed a road linking its bases at Kongka Pass and Heweitan. There was also a feeder road leading to the Samzungling area and covering the southern tributaries such as Shimengou.[43]

"Following the war, there was no further activity in the Galwan Valley from either India or China, till about 2003. Between 2003 and 2008, China embarked on a large-scale infrastructure development exercise in the run-up to the Beijing Olympics.[44] Starting in 2010, the Aksai Chin Road (G219) was repaved at a cost of $476 million.[45] Along with it, numerous improvements to the border infrastructure within Aksai Chin also became visible.[46] The existing road to the Heweitan military base was improved and extended under a new name "Tiankong Highway". The feeder road into Galwan Valley was also upgraded to a paved all-weather road and renamed the "Galwan Highway" (Chinese: 加勒万公路; pinyin: Jiā lè wàn gōnglù).

"India also commissioned a road link to Daulat Beg Oldi (DBO) at its northern frontier in 2001, scheduled to be completed by 2012. The road would start from the Shyok village and run along the western bank of the Shyok River and then move on to Depsang Plains near Murgo. The initial road did not meet the all-weather requirement, and it had to be rebuilt on an improved alignment later. The road was eventually completed in 2019 and named the Darbuk–Shyok–DBO Road (DS-DBO Road).[47] India also built a military outpost near the confluence of Galwan with the Shyok River, called 'KM 120'. It is said to have been a source of discomfort to China.[48]"

"2020 standoff

"China is said to have initiated the construction of a large number of "supporting facilities" in the Galwan Valley in September 2019.[50] These would include dams, bridges, camping grounds and power lines along the existing Galwan Highway, as well as an effort to extend the highway further towards the Line of Actual Control.

"In April 2020, India started its own construction efforts to build a feeder road off the DS-DBO Road, along the last 4–5 km stretch of Galwan Valley on its side of the LAC. According to Zhao Lijian, the Chinese Foreign Ministry spokesman, Indian forces started "unilaterally" building roads and bridges in the "Galwan region". They are said to have persisted with their efforts despite repeated protests from China, which allegedly "intensified cross-border troubles".[51] The Indian Army chief dismissed the complaints, saying, "There is no reason for anyone to object. They are doing development on their side, we are doing development on our side."[52][53]

"The problem for China was that its own roadway was still quite far from the LAC.[54] On 5 May 2020, China initiated a standoff by deploying troops in tented posts all along the Galwan Valley.[55][56] The Chinese also brought in heavy vehicles and monitoring equipment, presumably in an effort to accelerate the road construction.[57] And the Chinese government mouthpiece Global Times initiated a high-pitched rhetoric.[58] India responded by moving its own troops to the area in equal measure.[59] The Chinese eventually set up a post at a 90-degree bend in the river, close to the official LAC, which the Indians regarded as Indian territory and a patrol point (PP-14). The bend was to eventually become the new border.[60]

"To create a roadway through the narrow valley, the Chinese bulldozers dug out earth from the cliff sides, and used it to dredge the river bed. The river was constrained to flow in a narrow channel so that the rest of the river bed could be used for traffic and encampments.[61][62]

"Eventually, the standoff led to a violent clash on 15 June near PP-14 in Galwan Valley. Twenty Indian Army soldiers and an unknown number of Chinese soldiers were killed.[63][64] The causes of the clash remain unclear, but there had been reports, starting 10 June, of a "limited pull-back" agreed by the two sides by 1 to 2 kilometres from the confrontation site.[65] According to a detailed report published by India Today the Chinese had reneged on the agreement and reinstated a post at PP-14, which led to a series of brawls on 15 June, lasting till midnight and causing deaths on both sides.[66][n] A US Congressional review alleged that the Chinese government had planned the clash including its potential for fatalities.[69]"

Since they had attacked Indian soldiers with barbed iron rods, not useful for anything except a primitive deadly weapon in close encounter battle, their attack was not only intended but with preparation.

China denied heavy toll until confronted with satellite evidence, about over forty Chinese dead, admitting it only couple of years later.

" ... Following the clash, both the sides resumed their construction activity. India completed the contested bridge on the Galwan River by 19 June.[70] China extended its road till India's PP-14 by 26 June, in addition to erecting a full-blown post at the location. The Indians made no attempt to dismantle it a second time.[71]

"The final deescalation happened in stages starting 6 July.[72] With China's occupation of PP-14, the effective LAC in the Galwan Valley has shifted by about one kilometre in China's favour.[73][67]"

................................................................................................

"The Arganglas valley has large number of glaciers and peaks which are untouched. I could not locate a single photograph, which showed the peaks in these valleys in a close-up. The only point from where this range can be clearly observed is Khardung la. We had long discussions trying to sort out who’s who or which is which peak seen in the vast panorama. This was perhaps the largest cluster of unclimbed and unknown peaks in the Karakorams. The great bend of the Shyok protected the valley from three sides and in the north were the Saser Kangri peaks making an approach from there most difficult."

"The expedition members gathered in Mumbai on 19th August 2001, travelled by train to New Delhi and reached Leh by air. After acclimatising in Leh, we travelled by road across Khardung la, the highest motorable road in the world, to the Nubra valley. Standing on the Khardung la we had our first and only glimpse of the Arganglas area peaks. There were Saser Kangri peaks seen on the left and a large cluster of peaks on the right."

Two beautiful photographs here, captioned

"Argan glacier. On right the sharp pointed peak is Yamandaka, climbed by the expedition.(above) Below: Camp at the entrance of the Rassa glacier"

................................................................................................

"Climbs in the Phunangma and Nono Glaciers

"After establishing AB1 and AB2, we divided ourselves into smaller teams and operated as small independent parties from there on.

"The first to succumb to our efforts was Konto la (5920 m / 19,422 ft). This was a col between Karpo Kangri (6540 m / 21,460 ft) and Pk. 6640 m at the eastern head of the Phunangma glacier. It was reached by Bonington-Lowther on 7th September after a long walk along the moraine ridge. They also investigated the route to our future Camp 1 at the foot of Argan Kangri. They also climbed a couple of hundred metres towards a high col to their south.

"Two shapely peaks, Abale (6360 m / 20,865 ft) and Amale (6312 m / 20,708 ft) were situated on a side glacier, which we named Nono glacier. After an initial recce, Camp1 was set up 5960 m / 19,560 ft. Muni, Shroff and Samgyal made the first ascent of Abale Peak on 9th September by climbing it via the west face. It was a climb through deep and soft snow as the weather was not particularly stable during this time.

"Two days later, another team of Dam, Capt. Lingwal and Wangchuk occupied the same camp and climbed Amale Peak which is little to the north of the first peak. They had clear views from the summit. Both were first ascents of these peaks."

................................................................................................

"First Ascent of peak Yamandaka (6218 m) by its North Face and descent by the Shingskam Topko

"From the day we arrived at BC, below the Phunangma glacier, Mark Wilford and Mark Richey were captivated by the obvious and direct line on peak 6218's north face. The wall was estimated to be about 4000 ft high with a steep mix of rock and ice. The late afternoon sun delineated a sharp central rib, which bisected the face and finished exactly at the summit. The line looked irresistible!

"On the 8th of September, the two Marks crossed the Phunangma and set camp at the base of the face beneath a huge boulder. Conditions were anything but ideal. The entire face was plastered with fresh snow and the weather still appeared unstable. In addition, they had spent only 6 days between 15,000 and 17,000 ft. so their acclimatization was marginal.

"Between 9th and 12tth September, Marks climbed over 20 pitches of 60 meters each, of technical rock and ice on the face. All rock climbing was done with crampons in full winter conditions. A fair amount of direct aid was employed including 2 pendulums. They sack hauled on most of the pitches and the second jumared with a heavy pack. Several sections of frighteningly loose, stacked blocks had to be negotiated. At one point, a television sized rock, set loose by hand pressure, and nearly severed the lead rope. The ice climbing was mainly confined to the initial four pitches of 45-degree snow and ice and then the final three pitches of water ice up to 70 degrees and including the final overhanging cornice. They had taken only three ice screws, anticipating névé on the summit icefields. They braved snowfall on all days except the 11th and topped out in a full blizzard, which dumped nearly a foot of snow. They made three bivouacs on the face, the first two were excellent platforms and they were able to erect a small tent. The final open bivouac on the face was a narrow ledge chopped into a 50-degree ice slope. Heavy spindrift during the night kept them from much sleep. They also spent one night just below the summit.

................................................................................................

"The actual summit was reached on September 13th, after a storm. Clear skies allowed superb views of the surrounding mountains and ranges, all unclimbed and unexplored except for the two peaks that the Indians had just summited. There is phenomenal potential here for alpine style climbing on peaks up to 6800 meters. Due to the heavy snowfall their original plans of descent down the North East ridge to the Phunangma glacier seemed excessively dangerous. Instead, they opted for a descent down the South face of the mountain to a glacier system on the opposite side of the range. They hoped that this drainage would eventually link up to the Arganglas valley and with a little luck, a leisurely walk would see them back in base camp couple of days later.

"Nothing could have been further from the truth. In fact, the gentle disarming glacier ultimately funnelled its way down into a steep and terrifying gorge leading all the way to the Nubra valley. By the time they realized this, they were too exhausted to retrace path, (they were already on day 7 and had carried food for only five days) and so they committed themselves to the canyon. Soon they found themselves rappelling directly through waterfalls and down narrow water filled channels. At one point Mark Wilford had to drop his pack half way down a rappel into a deep pool for fear of being drowned.

................................................................................................

"Finally, after ten hours of brutal descent, they stood atop a huge waterfall longer than their rope. Beyond, the smooth canyon walls disappeared out of sight. Unwilling to make this final commitment, they searched for an escape. One side of the canyon presented a slight weakness. Wilford led up a wall of huge blocks literally cemented in place with mud. As Mark put it, ‘It was the most frightening pitch I have ever climbed’. Two more vertical pitches of rock and 500 ft of scrambling led them finally to the canyon rim and their 7th night out in the Shingskam Topko valley.

"They named the climb ‘Barbarossa’ after the World War II German/Russian conflict and the book they had been reading in base camp. This was one of the fine achievements, comparable to some of the finest climbing done in the Indian Himalaya.

................................................................................................

"Their climb and their delayed return gave us plenty of scares. After a few days, when they were delayed, we had discussions about where to start looking for them. It was out of question for anyone to climb on their route but after watching them for the first three days on the route through binoculars, we had completely lost them, which added to our anxiety. Moreover, while they were away on the route, the 11th September tragedy occurred and listening to that on the radio had a catalytic effect on our psyche. I suggested the only ‘Indian’ way I knew of –to build a temple for their safety. We did just that and Chris with humility and a prayer on his lips, consecrated it. We also sent one Nepali porter, Bhakta, to run down to the roadhead at Khalsar to see if they had exited from the south, the other side from us.

"After invoking the celestial care and exhausting human efforts, Chris and myself with Capt. Lingwal moved down to the base camp intending to alert the army for a helicopter search. That evening, Bhakta arrived back to the base camp. He had covered the entire three-day march up and down, each in a day. When he reached the roadhead he inquired with the army sentries near a bridge. They had seen no one. He decided to stay in a small hut looking towards the Shingskam nala. By late night he saw two dim torch lights moving down. He caught up with the Marks near the bridge next morning. Having never met and not able to speak each other’s language, they nevertheless established communication through a passing tourist. Bhakta ran up to the base camp with the news. I wouldn’t have believed him, had he not carried a small note from the Marks."

................................................................................................

""In the trans-Indus regions of Kashmir, sterile, rugged, cold and crowned with gigantic ice-clad peaks, there is a slippery track reaching northwards into the depression of Chinese Turkestan which for all time has been a recognised route connecting India with High Asia. It is called the Karakoram route. Mile upon mile a white thread of road stretches across the stone-strewn plains, bordered by the bones of innumerable victims to long fatigue of a burdensome and ill-fed existence – the ghastly debris of former caravans. It is perhaps the ugliest track to call a trade route in the whole wide world. Not a tree, not a shrub, exists, not even the cold, dead beauty which a snow-sheet imparts to highland scenery.

"( T. H. Holdich. Gates of India)"

And yet, such are the regions that inspired James Hilton's Lost Horizon and his Shangri-La.

"Not everyone likes the Karakoram. The barren and the rugged trail, leading on for miles and miles is not attractive to everyone. Due to security requirements there are several camps of the Indian army along the trail and these simple soldiers just fail to understand why anyone like us from Bombay or any part of the world would like to go there. As one officer put it, ‘What do you see in these Ganje Pahad (bald mountains)? This barren land?’. But if you are bitten by the bug of barrenness, the history of the area and the ruggedness of the terrain, you would go, and return. As I returned to the Eastern Karakoram areas again in July 2000. Ours was an Indian-French joint expedition during which many areas were explored and two peaks were climbed."

................................................................................................

"Karakoram Pass 2

"From Depsang la we reached the ‘Track Junction’ and camped in the open. On 11th August, the French team rested, while we Indians, with an Army escort, visited the Karakoram Pass. The road cuts across the high plateau and descends to the Chip Chap river flowing westwards rather quietly. It emerges from the Lokzung range, now held by China. It is a deceptive river and our jeep was stuck in the middle of it without a warning. A 1-ton truck was called for and it crossed the river in style and pulled us out. I was excited when we reached the famed camp ground of Daulat Beg Oldi, that famous ‘DBO’. Hundreds of caravans for centuries had camped here. It was believed that the rich man, Daulat Beg was buried here with his treasures. On this vast plateau nobody has been able to locate his grave. A few kilometres ahead the vast plains turned into a narrow alley, leading northwest. The wind was strong and the afternoon sun was beating strongly when we reached Polu, hidden behind a small ridge. Such small ridges or valleys, like the ones at Polu or at Chhajos Jilga, were selected as camping places by caravans. These ‘camps’ were small mud shelters and when the Indian Army first moved in, they found the body of a trader, crouching and sheltering against the Karakoram winds."

This must be the plains described by James Hilton in his Lost Horizon, ad the plateau where the lost travellers are met by a Lama from Shangri-la.

................................................................................................

"To Gapshan

"We were now to proceed west for our exploration and climbs in the Rimo group of mountains and glaciers. From the Track Junction a trail leads to Gapshan, 23 km.5 As we marched on this vast plateau, the truth of being on the Depsang came home to us.

""All around appeared mountains ranges, none of which was less than 20,000 feet high, whilst to the west rose two peaks of much greater height; yet in distance they seemed below us, for the land around sloped away down on all sides. In whichever direction we looked the sky appeared below us and the world shrunk out of sight. In fact we felt as if we had risen above the world and were now descending to it in front of us.

""(Dr. Bellew on Depsang Plateau)"

Author of 'Three Cups Of Tea' has sort of copied this, in the first phrase (the part about being surrounded by high peaks), with changes to suit his description of the village where he took refuge, supposedly, from exhaustion of a climb.

................................................................................................

"Along the Shyok

"The first day of the trek was a disaster. The first few crossings were difficult and our group was divided and stranded. The horses like their typical Ladakhi owners would always go ahead and not look back, for they had to reach the campsite at Chong Jungle (3690 m) (also known as Horup). As we had started late, no one could reach the camp and people had to spent the night en route. A tired and haggard party arrived into the camp early morning for breakfast. Half a day of rest was declared and then we made a short journey to Burma (3760 m). The first crossing was that of the Chang Chenmo river. The Chang Chenmo (Ororotse) gorge flows in from the east and it is one of the deep valleys leading from the Shyok valley to the Aksai Chin plateau. There was a prominent track traversing the Chang Chenmo and crossing Lanak la (5486 m) to reach Kun Lun plains and Western Tibet plateau. This was an old trade route used by traders from the Tibet.

"We came across a maidan with stones and offerings with prayer flags. This signified that we were in the presence of Thangsing Karmo, a place of worship for Ladakhis. A huge stone to east of the Shyok, appeared as if doing a namaste. The Buddhists worship here, especially on the full moon of the lunar ninth month when people gather in large numbers. This falls generally in the October and November months when the water level is low. As we looked back from the trail, this rock dominated the skyline.

................................................................................................

"Staying at Burma (3760 m) for the night and now getting accustomed to cold crossings we set off very early the next day. Our aim was to reach Chumed and Char Bagh. We were assured that after Chumed, crossings would be easier and the water level would be low. True to this assurance, after the third day, at Char Bagh (3920 m), the water level was low. But the final crossing at Char Bagh was a terror in itself. Our Kumauni porters, who were not used to crossing deep rivers, were stuck on the wrong bank. The entire party and the horses, unmindful of the resistance, went across and camped. After a while we saw this group sitting on the opposite bank and not willing to come across. All we could do was keep on shouting, plodding and encouraging them. When everything failed, our energetic Ladakhi member Motup Chewang climbed up a rock and started throwing stones at them, as if trying to push horses into water. After a lot of ‘persuasion’ they gathered courage, held hands and with terror written on their faces, came across the river, hoping that this was for the last time. One of them remarked, ‘What sins I have done in past life to be crossing the Shyok so many times, never again’, and that was the thought reflected by almost everyone.

................................................................................................

"A day ahead of Char Bagh we camped at foot of the Yurgolak fort (4050 m), which was located on a ridge about 100 m above. Though the fort walls were in a dilapidated state whatever remained was still solid and one could see the rooms and the courtyards. From the fort, looking across the Shyok valley, was the North Shukpa Kunchang nala, locally known as Nortot. By traversing this glacier and crossing an easy pass, a trail crossed to Sumur in the Nubra valley. This was the old route used by the traders from Karakoram Pass to the Nubra valley when Saser la was closed. The reason for building this fort was not exactly known, but according to one legend it was built to protect against the invasion of Gen. Chengiz Khan of Mongolia, known in Ladakh ‘Tsogpo Galden Chhang’. Another fort was built at Sumur by the Ladakhi king to offer complete security. About 300 years before the Mongolian army had invaded Ladakh. This fort is known as Tsogmak (Tsog–Mongolian, mak-troops). Their army conquered territories till Leh where one of their senior generals was killed. He was buried under ‘Namgyal Tsemo’ the semo on a hill above Leh. However much of this history may be debatable and unknown, but certainly the forts are worth preserving as one of the landmarks of the past.2"